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I am working on my "new" 1947 Clipper 2100 6 cylinder with 33,000 original miles, and I just replaced the points, plugs, condenser, and distributor cap. It was running fine; but started to "miss", when it appeared to burn the prior set of points unevenly.

My main question:

It's a Delco-Remy distributor, and I have the correct points. They lock-down with a screw on the left, and adjust with a cam-type screw next to it. I "get" that concept. In order to check & reset dwell angle, do you simply need to pop the Dist. and reset the points 'til you get it right ? There is a 3/4 " rotary cap on the bottom left of the distributor, and it turns both ways. Is this a fine tune adjustment for the distributor ? In the picture, the part in question is at approx 9 o'clock on the outside of the distributor.

The car starts OK; but runs very rough.

I am having trouble making my timing light work (I don't own a 6 volt light). I have tried to hook the 12 volt timing light to jumper cables from my car parked next to the Clipper; then hooking-up the clamp on the #1 spark plug. It doesn't want to illuminate the timing light through the jumper cables (only when I hook directly to the 12 volt battery). I will try to remove the battery from the newer car and have it nearer my Clipper, , , that's next weekend.

Thanks for any input.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

P. S. Yes, I know that I need to put my '47 pictures in the owners registry

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Dave,

Congratulations on your "new" Clipper. Unfortunately can't offer anything on the fix-it side of things, I'll leave that to the experts. Seems like you're gathering quite a Packard collection together and I'm looking forward to seeing the '47 entry in the Owner Registry.

Only thing I can think of like a knob on dist is the grease cup--supposed to fill with grease and give a bit of a turn every so often to lube the shaft.. Not sure what you mean by popping the dist unless referring to modern with an adjustment on the side. If that's the case, then yes removing the cap and doing it the old fashioned way is the option..setting the point gap to .020 should get you in the ballpark for spec'd 35 degrees--although a new set of points might need a smidge different to allow for wear. Manual says to set new points to 3 degrees less than spec.

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Dave, I use a 12 volt lamp as you do but hook direct to 12 v battery and it works fine. When you changed the cap did you get the plug wires in the proper firing order-153624?

Dave,

Have you checked the heat riser? (aka. heat control valve, manifold valve)? This devise is designed to preheat intake air on startup, thus giving better idling to a cold engine. On warming-up it closes. If it doesn't it can contribute to overheating in hot weather and 'reduced fuel efficiency' (if I can use such a phrase on a 'Packard' website)

I just learned this important quick 'fix' for my rough-running at start-up problems.

You may know all of this, BUT I didn't until an hour ago. The heat control valve is in the exhaust manifold under the carburetor. Mine has been rusted 3/4 open for 1 to 20 years (I have only had the Clipper 1 year, I don't know the rest).

I had to tap one end of the valve shaft with a small ball pene hammer until it moved a bit. Then I tapped the other end (where the bi-metal spring is). Begin lightly then more vigorously until the shaft can be tapped from side to side. Maybe yours is not that rusty. Mine was!!! Eventually, I could tap it backward and forward, but it would not turn by hand.

I started using a spray can of carb cleaner (it actually said 'good for heat risers' on the can). Finally, I lightly tapped the counterweight in the rear end of the shaft and the shaft turned slightly. More taps, more spray, more hand turns and within 15 minutes of start time and walking back and forth for tools (good exercise without fitness Center prices), the heat riser would set itself and the manifold spring on the front end would control the shaft as designed.

Love them Packards. They are made to work.

Test drive Results. Heat riser is open on start-up when engine is cool. Heat riser closes on engine warmup.

Perhaps your heat riser is stuck open or mostly open like mine was. This can also contribute to overheating as exhaust air

Good Luck
DanL

Dave

ROTOR? Also make sure your rotor isn't sloppy. I got a new one from a Packard supplier that was manufactured in South America. It was not as good as my old one or several used ones.

DanL

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Are we talking of something else or is the 6 different than the 8? I thought valve worked just the opposite.

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Dan, The heat riser butterfly valve should be closed on start up and open on engine warm up. I am sure this was a typo but just didn't want Dave to be under the wrong assumption. Heat riser counter weight should be up when engine is cold and at the bottom of it's arc when the engine is warm.

47 Clipper, Good comment.

OPEN? Closed? Here's my reasoning:

Not being a mechanic, I was thinking about it from the intake-manifold preheat.

The Manifold valve is OPEN to the 'the intake-manifold preheat' area on startup.

The Manifold valve is CLOSED to the 'the intake-manifold preheat' area after ENGINE warmup.

Are you thinking about it from the exhaust pipe? THUS:

The Manifold valve is CLOSED to the 'the exhaust pipe and must go through the manifold preheat area' on startup.
Then as the engine warms up, the Manifold valve slowly OPENS to the 'the exhaust pipe so that less and less hot exhaust goes through the manifold preheat area' until it finally CLOSES FULLY and NO or virtually no heat goes to preheat area.

If so, we may be describing the same event from two different locations. [And in an Election Year, 2 people saying the opposite thing might both be right?] {Now I have confused myself as well!}

Either way, Dave is probably trying to remember why he started this thread? Hey Dave, are we doing any good?

DanL

From what I understand.The engine started running rough before you tuned the engine ? Points should be at 16 to 18 thousands.What did the old plugs look like ?Wet ?if so you may have carb trouble.Your distributor looks the same as mine and is pretty trouble free.Clean and refill the grease cup and give a turn in every couple of hundred miles.Add a few drops of engine oil to the wick just under the rotor.
Firing order is 153624 counter clockwise.Are the plug wire's correct ?
I wouldn't rule out a failing condensor,they have driven more than one mechanic to drink.