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I have a 51 300 which is running hot after I drive it for about 20 minutes. It has not overheated yet since I park the car when the temperature gauge hits the 3/4 mark. I removed the water pump but cannot get the water distibution tube out of the engine block. I tried the bent wire hook but to no avail. I quit trying when I felt that I had distorted the hole in the tube I was pulling on. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I might remove the tube?
Thanks,
Casey Rog

I rebuilt my 51 200 using a 327. On both cars, I used a long piece of 3/8" dia all-thread, about 4 feet long as a puller. By bending about a 1" L at the end of it, it worked pretty well. I had to try several times inserting it and rotating the rod to hook it in the holes. The tube is basically flat, and the holes are on the right hand side as you face the engine. I found that by running the rod in towards the end of the engine, I could pull it out without much difficulty. When I pulled on a hole closer to the radiator, it wouldn't move. If you need a photo of the tube, let me know and I'll shoot you one of my spare (I have two, so one is for sale at $60, what I paid for it.)
However, I'll bet you a dollar yours is in good shape, and the problem is either the water pump or more likely the radiator. Both the one in my old engine and the spare 327 looked just like the new old stock one I bought. Good luck either way.

David, congrats. It looks like you reinvented the method, Packard once recommended.
Casey, this way please to find related experience reports and pics.
BTW How is your cormorant with the broken wing doing?






[picture source: flickr.com]

Thanks, David.
I had the radiator cleaned and soldered at a radiator shop last year so I don't think that's the problem. I'll have to check out the water pump to make sure it works properly.

Gusha,
Thanks, for the pictoral. The broken wing is sitting on my work bench should I ever need it. I bought another cormorant on e-bay last year (with intact wings) which I have on the car now.

Have you checked the thermostat to see if it fully opens at the rated temperature? That turned out to be the problem with my '50 overheating. I haven't had any problems since I replaced it.

Thanks everyone for the advise on the removal of the water distribution tube. What I finally did was to get a six foot piece of the metal strapping we have at work (3/4" width) and ran it top, bottom, and both sides of the tube.
It came out very easily when I used a six foot piece of 5/6" diameter threaded rod with a 90 degree bend at one end to hook into one of the tube's holes. The last couple of holes were somewhat clogged. Hopefully that was the running hot problem. Once again, thanks everyone.
Casey Rog