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Wondering if anyone's removed the 20 screws holding the front door hinges to the hinge post on specifically a 1941-47 Clipper. The nuts are spot welded into steel boxes that receive the hinge screws. My car was sold new July 19th, 1947, San Luis Obispo,CA always garaged, no rust. But those screws haven't been touched since they left Detroit 69 years ago.
The body shop pro has worked on plenty of old Briggs bodies, knows enough to use the exact sized screwdriver, etc.

My sole concern is whether any of you have ever removed all 20 of these hefty screws with smooth sailing, no broken welds. My car's a four door, and the club sedan's longer, heavier doors use the same screws, which is one (1) good thing.

Thanks for any insight. Have already copiously sprayed with WD-40 (not the best stuff for this but what i had on hand) everything i could get to with the kick panels removed.

All ears and eyes.

Last year I pulled the door hinges from a 38 sedan that had been sitting outside since forever. I used an impact screw driver and all the screws came out without any problem.

Those screws are fine thread Phillips and need to be approached with care because they are not a common hardware.

I always sprayed that stuff with penetrating oil and let sit for at least a week before attempting to disassemble. You need to get the spray inside the pillars as best you can.

Removed all hinge screws recently on my 2126. No issues at all however, before "screwin" up the Phillips head screws, heat and penetrating fluid should be used on any that don't just break free readily. The heat expands the fastening and the nut both which tend to add some additional space (once cooled) for penetrating fluid to work it's magic. if you don't have an impact screw driver, a few sharp raps on a regular screw driver with a hammer will help loosen any corrosion. (have used this method for forty years breaking stainless steel free once corroded in aluminum from salt exposure)

...if you don't have an impact screw driver, a few sharp raps on a regular screw driver with a hammer will help loosen any corrosion

A classic method for stubborn fasteners!

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds (must be damn big bolt)
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.

ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters.

Can I soak a 55 4GC carburetor in the ATF/acetone mixture and not have any issues?
How long can I safely soak it?
Would it eat any of the metal?

I don't think that either acetone or ATF individually would have any effect on the metallic materials so I suspect the mixture would be safe. The mixture is primarily intended for rust but there is so little steel in the carburetor it's use seems out of place. But if it really needs a "soak", there are specialized products just for that purpose - why not use one of them?

OD,
The throttle body assembly is rusted, so before I can clean, I want to get them loose and not do any damage. I don't want to force anything, so I thought I would put them in an aluminum roasting pan and let them soak.

I have sprayed them everyday with PB blaster, and some Kroil for about a week to 10 days.

I'm open to other suggestions.

I never heard of the tip hitting a screwdriver with a hammer. Sounds interesting! So you just hit the screwdriver head on and it will force the screw to turn?