Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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Yes, and it is not easy to get at the screws holding the motor assembly to the housing.
I have usually done it when removing the entire heater assembly but believe it can be done by removing the large hoses and taking out the two 1/4" hex head screws on the mounting bracket for the blower assembly.to allow the blower to slide forward from the heater box.

Howard is right, just take those 6 screws out and it will come apart. They are self tappers so they WILL come out if you can just grab the screw and get it to turn. I have gotten ones out with a vise grip that were too pitted to even turn with a screwdriver.

Do not try to remove the squirrel cage fan from the motor shaft.

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Since there was a limited number of spaces in the dash panel for switches, if a car had an underseat heater option and no room or no desire to add another switch in the dash, in some cases the wire from the underseat heater was spliced in so the same heater switch could be used to control that fan too. If yours is such a car the problem could also be in the underseat heater wire which typically is just a length of the fabric covered wire running down in a kickpanel space then across the floor under the carpet with clamps to the body sheetmetal in a couple of spots to hold it.

Good job. The wire is in surprisingly nice condition actually. Most of them are trashed.

The motor has Oilite bushings inside however there's no way to lube them from the outside. I like to disassemble the motor with the screws but it can be quite a handful as the space is limited and the wiring is difficult to manage without damaging it so best leave it alone. It's more appropriate for a motor with unsalvagaeable wiring; I can then install a new grommet as well.

This is one of the reasons I've always replaced every lick of wiring in both my Packards. 70+ year old wire is way past it's use by date.

Especially the cloth covered wiring where chunks of installation can just fall off with age and then short. Car fires in old cars due to electrical are more common than engine related fires.

Add in the fact many older car used less, but larger fuses, and its essential that they electrical system be given the same due diligence as your brake system when sorting a car.

If nothing readily obvious is found with the wire, you could also check around the switch for a short or something bending or falling inside the heat shield and touching the resistance. As you are aware, there is not much space between switches if something caused a terminal to bend or short. If nothing is found then disconnect the wire to the heater and see if the switch itself is causing the problem. It is conceivable something has happened internally to the switch mechanism similar to what has been found as an issue with several dimmer switches when their internal spring broke.

Here is a typical switch panel and also an exploded view of a switch. I believe these were both posted by the fellow who restored a Convertible Victoria a few years ago. This disassembled switch is a headlight switch but all the switches have similar internal construction with only the number of contacts and their layout on the fiber back plate being the difference.

While you are there, drill a small hole in the bump in the housing at the end of the motor shaft and put a drop of light oil in. Cover the hole with a tiny dab of silicone. Squirt a little oil under the skirt of the squirrel cage onto the shaft and let it run down the shaft onto the bushing at that end. Now you are good for another 74 years.