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Hi all,

As I said before, I wish I had fitted a cut-off switch, it might have saved a 3 year restroration from being destroyed in seconds.

More than likely caused by the seat frame cutting through the live wire as it exits from the base along the seat.

Needless to say I have one on my Packard now....

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Take a look at Jegs, you can buy a 300 amp disconnect switch with remote linkage for about $90.00.

Cheap insurance....

RT

These are what I put on all my vehicles, between the positive cable and the starter solenoid:




$20 from Speedway Motors,you can't beat that, and it will last for a long time. I need to get one for the '48 though.

Eric, This is the switch I have in mind but how will you mount it. Will you put it through a hole in the firewall so you can operate it from inside the vehicle or make a bracket for under the hood only access? This is the information on I am looking for not so much the type of switch. Pictures would be nice also of the mounting system.

I plan on making a bracket in the engine compartment and mounting it there. This way, when I get to a car show or am parking it in the garage, I can just pop the hood and shut it off there. I don't really want to drill a hole in the firewall to mount it, especially one that big.

The aftermarket wire harness I bought for my '54 has a built in kill switch on the bottom of the fuse box. So the only thing not protected is the between the battery>starter>fusebox.

Name of after market wiring harness suppler please.

I am using the Battery Brain III (6 volt version) from Bill Hirsch. There are some qwerks to it but it works very well now that I got the bugs out. You don't have to open the hood to use it and it requires no modifications. It mounts directly to the battery. I'll be glad to share all the details.

I'd be interested in knowing what kind of quirks you found. Had been considering the 12v one with remote control off/on. Held off because reviews on Amazon for just about all the models are all over the place.

HH: Most of the problems I had (my opinion) was because the switch is set up for negative ground use. With a positive ground car, the switch works opposite as it should. I have had to call them 4 times so far for advise. To keep the car running under a load (generator system, not alternator) I had to buy the engine vibration sensor at an extra price. This has worked good so far.

I tried to clean the battery after it was installed with baking soda and lots of water. The connections would not work wet and I had to dry everything up before it worked properly again. Finally, because of the polarity issue, if you disconnected any connection, the switch stays on, rather then shuts off, as a thief deterrent.

The last time I called Battery Brain direct, I suggested that it might work better on the negative post, but the tech. said that their switch needs to be on the positive terminal to get power.

Again, I can shut the battery off as soon as I pull into my attached garage for safety and I don't have to raise the hood as the switch is on the key fob.