Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

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Al, I just dropped this tank out of my running Clipper Deluxe. The tank itself works just fine and fits perfectly. I'm not sure if the filler tube enters in a different spot on the 56 cars or maybe just for the clipper deluxe like I've got.

I'm trying to sort out the electrics for the gauge. If I can't get this to work with the stock gauge, I'm considering adding a separate aftermarket gauge for the fuel level. It would be much cheaper to do rather than installing a packard tank for $250 (max merrit pricing).

The Chebbie tank might fit the straps and hook-up to the filler neck, but it's not what I'd call a "direct-fit".

Not only is the position of the sending unit significantly different for the Chevy tank, the fuel pick-up tube is an integral part of the sender. The Packard tank has a separate pickup fitting (with internal tubing) located near the left front bottom corner of the tank.

Speaking of separate fittings, I see no hook-up for the vent tube.

I've never understood why no one ever reproduced the Packard tank as it was used in all models 1952-56 (possibly adaptable to 1951?). The upper and lower halves of the tank are identical stampings - just finished differently for different holes.

Brian,

I never said that it was direct replacement part. I merely discovered this tank under my Clipper. You are absolutely correct in the fact that a person would have to do some modifications to their car to make this tank work. Someone had done this to my car by altering the fuel line to reach to the new location of the pick-up. I've also discovered, upon closer inspection, that they notched the frame slightly for the filler tube to connect to the tank inlet. They completely ignored the fuel level gauge by not hooking it up.

My guess is that they, like me, were on a limited budget and didn't want to spend a ton of money to replace the tank. I've seen these Chev tanks for $150ish online for brand new tanks.

I noticed the lack of vent hook-up as well. However, the filler neck on my car has what looks like a vent tube intersecting it about 5 inches down from the gas cap. I'm not sure if this filler neck is stock or another add-on from a previous owner.

I just hooked up the Chev sending unit to my meter and it's showing 0-ohm at empty and 31-ohm at full. I then tried it hooked to the car and the gauge didn't budge at all. Next, I grounded the gauge wire to the chassis and the needle quickly swept from Empty to Full. So I guess that this unit isn't sending enough resistance to move the gauge?? Is it obvious I've never studied electrical engineering?

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I'm a complete Moron!!

I didn't ground the sending unit before testing it. Now at Empty the gauge reads Full. And at Full, the gauge reads a little less than half tank.

OOOOOOOPPPPPPPPPSSSSSSSSSSSS in the vernacular of the day "MY BAD". In my previous post I was not referring to the filler neck I was referring to the placement of the sending unit. That could be why you gauge is reading incorrectly.

The way the Packard gauge works is a small heating coil works on a bimetallic strip which moves with temperature change and is linked to needle. At empty, the resistance is high so very little current flows to heater, so very little heat up, and almost no movement of needle. At full, there is only a slight bit of resistance, so the heater is on and able to move the needle to maximum.

Since you have to keep the gas supply line part, from the looks of the setup you have it might be possible to remove the unit from the universal gauge (which is just screwed on) and mount where Chevy is. It might have to have a small plate added so you can orient things properly but by bending & shortening the float assy, it should be possible to reach a suitable range. The JC Whitney univeral assy and part # I worked with is shown. Adjustment at empty would be 70-80 ohms and full would be 5-10.

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HH56-

Thanks for the description of how the gauge works. I had no idea that it worked on heat. But now that I think about it, it makes perfect sense. It takes a while for the heat to effect the needle, so while the fuel sloshes around and moves the float up and down slightly the needle doesn't swing wildly. Just a smooth representation of the fuel level. Is this how the Coolant Temp gauge works as well I wonder?

Another question...if I run this thing the way it is, when the tank approaches empty and the needle swings past "F" because the Chevy Unit is at 0 ohms, will it overheat and damage the gauge? If not, then I might put it back together the way it is and live with it for a while. I'll have to remember that F means Find Fuel!

Temp gauge works same way, as does oil pressure on senior cars. They all work off approx 5v from a voltage regulator in a little square can behind instrument cluster that has a small heating element and bimetal strip inside. That opens and closes a set of contacts to change the 12 V to pulses which average out to 5v. Everything then gets grounded at respective sensors to complete the circuit.

As to using your sender, I would not recommend if it is truly 0 ohms because the gauge will be permanently damaged if allowed to sit at maximum. Install a 10 ohm resistor in the line so it won't hit maximum. Radio Shack has them--less than $2. Unfortunately, I don't know how much current flows to calculate the wattage but am guessing the 1 watt would be fine. If not, am sure someone on the forum will correct me. You'll have to see where that drives the needle and there probably won't be much range with that sensor.

Does the filler neck attach to the tank with a hose or is the filler neck welded to the tank??????

From his pictures in his previous posts, it looks like a hose connection.