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What I did after jacking the engine was to put another board between the pulley and the cross member, then gently lowered the engine so that the pan wasn't holding the engine for the entire job

West, though as I noted above I've also supported the engine by the vibration damper, I don't think it's a particularly good practice due to the the potential for internal damage to the rubber innards of the vibration damper.

I went through this entire water pump and motor mount replacement last year. When I put the parts back I used socket head bolts (Allen Head)in place of the ones that don't have box wrench or socket clearance. Next time will be a lot easier.

Thanks to all of you- that is all very helpful information. Is this a great community or what?!!!

Just dropped my radiator off at the rad shop. I will now attempt to remove the tube using the suggested methods. I will report back ASAP.

Tube is out. Took me about an hour and a half to wrestle it out, along with flushing, dumping out the plastic bins of water, etc. (I'm inside). Nasty stuff in there! I finally got it loose after sticking welding rods around the outside of the tube to loosen the sediment.

Now, what is the preferred method of removing freeze plugs, engine in car? Slide hammer with a screw? Don't know if I have room for that on all five. The second one is behind the oil fill tube- how does the tube come out? Interference fit only?

The plugs appear to be 1-31/32" measuring as best I can with calipers. NAPA has them for 99? each.

Thanks for any ideas!

Some claim you can push a freeze plug in just enough to rotate it and pull it out sideways, but I've not had much luck with that on my V8s. Also, there's a danger of losing some plugs inside the water jacket that way.

Pulling a freeze plug with a screw and slide hammer is the more common approach that I've seen. In lieu of slide hammer, a prybar (with nail slot) can be used, as lever, to pull on the head of the installed screw.

I've also seen a dremel tool used to cut slit down the middle of the plug, and then a screwdriver to pry it out.

However, any time you're drilling/cutting a freeze plug, you must take care to ensure that you stay out of any adjacent cylinder wall.

Freeze plugs are 1 61/64, NAPA 219-3042. I never have luck pulling them, always punch them in then flip them out with visegrips. The oil tube will pull out. You can loctite it back in.

Ross,

That is the measurement I came up with after pulling one.

I used the screw/pry bar technique with a piece of 1/2" plywood under the fulcrum for leverage and to protect the block. I had to use a chisel to loosen the lip a little and they popped right out.

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Almost 20 years ago after a trip to Sweden in wintertime I installed an immersion heater in the engine of a VW Passat to preheat the cooling water by network electricity before engine start - many Swedish cars use the same system. To pull non-destructive a freeze plug I worked more than one hour and as you know the overhead work time counts twice as much. Thereafter I've read the instruction for installation. Unfortunately too late because the old freeze plug has to be perforated to hold the heating coil...




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Consider replacing your core casting (freeze) plugs with brass, not steel plugs. Any decent parts house should have them in a range of sizes. Perhaps overkill, but can't hurt.

The steel plugs lasted 64 years without failure. I'm 58. I have a sneaking suspicion that the steel ones I'm putting in will not be an issue for me!