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Sometimes I think making the odds and ends are nearly as fun as the work they are used for. I enjoyed our chat this afternoon. I still think you have the tougher task; remembering where and how everything goes during major reassembly.

Other than a little detail and painting on the fan, and redoing the engine mount in green, not a great deal of progress over the weekend. Started out planning to swap new pistons on to the connecting rods. After all old pistons were removed I grabbed a new wristpin to test fit. When expecting to experience a nice push fit what I got was about .003" to .005" clearance. I say about because it was loose enough the there was no need to measure, clearly the pins presently fitted were oversize.

At that point, I loaded the rods and sample pin to drop off with Morrison Auto Machine. They have the correct pin bushing expander and can ream to size. They will check the big ends, size, and straighten the rods, while at it, if needed.

Upon returning home, my buddy John was waiting. Had a quick lunch, and we adjourned to the garage. John has our other friends distributor machine set up and running at his house so I said "Let's take a look at the distributor." So we began to examine the distributor shaft deflection. I seemed to recall the shaft having enough play that I set the points while pushing the advance mechanism towards the direction of the vacuum advance unit to split the difference in shaft play.

Well, the lower bushing felt reasonable tight. The upper bushing was a completely different story. With the points completely closed, the shaft could be moved and points opened to what appeared around .030" gap. Wow! I am shocked it ran fairly well with that kind of bushing wear. We measured the distributor shaft and found it to be worn a few thousandths, but otherwise in serviceable condition. John said he would take the body, install bushings and use his expandable reamer to undersize the bushings and compensate for the slight wear in the shaft.

Got a call a couple hours latter that the bushings were in, and sized. We met at the cruise in (which happened to feature "Packard's of Arizona car club" night) and did an on the spot inspection with other Packardites. As usual, John had outdone himself! The unworn portion of the shaft went through with a bit of resistance settling in to a perfect feel and fit when fully seated against the thrust washer.

The parts will be cleaned and lubed; a new flexible lead installed, and on to the distributor machine for verification of factory prescribed advance intervals both mechanical & vacuum, and total advance.

Will reassemble and finish this week.

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Jim
I found an oil pump pickup tube for you. It's labled for "356" engine.

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Thanks West, as always, it was a pleasure talking with you!


Over the last several evenings I have reassembled the distributor. The only thing really missing is the new flexible ignition wires from NAPA (thanks Howard!) but the old wires sufficed for testing purposes.

I needed to come up with a new shaft pin. I found the hole to be a bit unsatisfactory for a roll pin so I bought a length of 1/8th" drill rod, parted it to the right length, faced it, and counter bored it 1/16th" to allow expansion and the ends to form a nice rivet head. Once built, the shaft and points cam lobe scarcely moved a few thousandths with extreme side pressure. Everything runs nice and smooth!

Tonight we were off to our friend Johns for supper out followed by time on the distributor machine. From the look of the springs and weights, this distributor had been fooled with at some point and done well at that. The distributor machine confirmed this. The advance comes in just a bit sooner both mechanical and vacuum. This is a favorable situation given our modern regular grade gasoline is about 10 or so octane points higher than the best fuel available 72 years ago.

The mechanical and vacuum advance was recorded in steps prescribed in the service manual (found right here on Packard Info!) measured in distributor RPM and inches of mercury for the vacuum advance, with the two factors added for total advance. Total advance was well within acceptable limits.

It is really fun to use the equipment that fellows used to keep our cars in tip top shape 70 years ago, in the here and now. Whether you have points or not, these distributors need proper maintenance and lubrication, including assurance that the advance systems are functioning within reasonable parameters.

I hope this helps folks get an idea of how distributors were checked for proper operation after a major service.

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Jim, looks great. you are doing a great job.

It's been a long while since posting. Spent a great deal of time tracking down rod bearings that would allow me to selective fit STD, & .001" sets as needed. Collected from four different sources around the country. Went ahead and installed new pistons while at it. Got to really push hard if I'm going to take both Packards to the Laughlin show next month.

The engine is running, with all lifters pumped up and quite so far. Perhaps the front clip can be re-installed over the next weekend.

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The most recent project was installing the exhaust system I bought myself for Christmas last December from a different major Packard exhaust supplier than the one I used on the '39 Super 8. I did this because the one on the '39 did not fit. I had to do some cutting and welding on it; so, I went with the "other usual vendor".

Well, no surprise at all, this system was far worse. Yet again (that's right, same thing happened on the '39), I received a system for a 148" car after repeatedly saying I have a 127" car. Really though, it didn't matter because the head pipe wouldn't even bolt up, the flange was drilled wrong. So, I elongated the holes and then found that it would bolt up, but not flat to the Ex. Manifold. That's because the pipe hit the frame.
After bending the head pipe, and then cutting a wedged shaped segment and welding (this allows one to manipulate the bends) the head pipe fit. The secondary pipe actually fit worse, way worse. I had to section it, and completely change the end that went into the muffler. The other end needed an inch and a half cut off. The tail pipe was the funniest part of all. It stuck out 3' past the rear bumper. I had to cut, bend, and shorten, then add the last 6" so it exited straight and cleared the bumper guard.

Fitting and modifying the entire system took a mere 16 man hours, welding machine, and chop saw. This makes the third system from the third vendor I have installed in an antique car and had this experience. My advise to anyone considering a pre-fab antique car exhaust system is plan on major modification. Who knows, maybe it will go right in, Kev had good luck with his '54 Clipper system. I have yet to enjoy a bolt in experience.

With all that said, there is nothing more satisfying than finishing a long day and seeing the finished product installed and fitting the way the fellows at East Grand Blvd. would have wanted.

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Jim, wow what a struggle with that exhaust. I guess I lucked out with mine, or all the 51-54s are so similar that it's hard to screw them up.

Only thing wrong with mine was that one holder tab welded onto the bottom of the head pipe was locate 90 degrees off center. This did matter as the pipe that was getting replaced used a clamp style retainer, so I just reused that.

Can't wait to see the '40 with the front clip back on.

Jim,

What a battle on your exhaust system.

Whose exhaust systems have you tried to date? I have the muffler and about ready to order the pipes for my '32.

Keep up the great work!

Been off line for a while, had a major modem failure. In the meantime, good progress has been made on the '40 engine project. After the initial run time the last of the details on the engine had to be addressed. There were a few things I was un-sure about like the broken off bracket that went from the bell housing to the exhaust pipe, what held the intake manifold drain tube, and how the heater pipe was supported as it ran parallel to the cylinder head.

All these questions and more were answered a few weeks back when flackmaster hosted a wonderful Packard weekend in Dallas where we spent the better part of a day with Jim Hollingsworth. Jim really appreciates the details, and loves '40's so between his knowledge and collection of cars in his museum it was no trouble to document and replicate these missing items. Though none if the little detail items really show, and most folks would care either way, I feel these are the finishing touches on a newly sorted engine.

So... the engine is running, the details understood, and parts replicated, and now ready for front clip. We rolled the car out and prepped for the front clip. Oddly, this Sunday is the orphan car picnic. One year ago to the week as mentioned in this thread I was working to get the car sorted (seals, brakes, fuel system, lube and chassis service) to make this show, and here I am again pushing to make the show. The bonus this year is our PI chapter is doing Packard night Saturday evening at the Scottsdale Pavilions. So far, so good; I think we'll make it to both.

As for the question on the exhaust supplier(s) my experience is with the two well known Packard suppliers and with the most well known supplier for all brands. I don't know what to say other than best of luck.

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Nice detail work. You may want to investigate the use of a heat shield above the fuel pump, and a heat sheild behind the carburetor.
Also, and I only bring this up because I know you're trying to get the details correct, you might want to use correct hose clamps. The first two items may be helpful once you start driving, the hose clamps only for judging.

I'm curious about your upper radiator hose(s). Shouldn't that be a single hose?

Would you be interested in making another heater pipe support bracket? I need one. Also, I'm interested in how the intake drain tube bracket attaches (fuzzy photo). Did you make that, too?