Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:


I would say when it boils over. From what I have read in this thread that has not ever happened. If I remember right the pressure cap is rated at 7 pounds. Also if my memory serves for every pound pressure the boiling point of the water is raised by approx 4 degrees. That means that the water will not boil until it reaches around 240 degrees.

I would suggest you pull off the road when it catches fire.
So it is not a complete bust, have plenty of marshmallows and sticks in the trunk.

You must have at least one wise-guy comment every 18 pages. All work and no play makes...

I realize I'm arriving pretty late to this party, but when I found this forum topic, I was very interested because my 50 is exhibiting the same "overheating" problem, at least according to the factory gauge. I have not experienced my newly cored radiator boiling over, but would very much like to know at what temperature I should be concerned about the head warping or other damage to the engine.

Don

Hi.

Maybe I can shed some light on what I eventually figured out and offer some advise. I believe Kanter is connected to the Kanter web site that sells Packard stuff. Well take his URL and burn it .. in addition he never contributes anything to the discussion except his worthless wise cracks. I am sure he is crying to the bank as each question on this site goes unanswered. How long has this thread been going on ?

The reason we were both seeing these temperatures has nothing to do with analog gauges or any or the other BS that was mentioned in the thread. There was a service bulletin that stated that this is "normal" and explained in a nutshell... The engine is so long and the airflow/transfer of coolant to the rear cylinders is inadequate. You don't over heat because the front cylinders are a lot cooler. The temp sending unit is to the rear of the engine or at lease midway down stream of the flow from the aft cylinder which makes it a lot hotter.

To fix drop the coolant temp initially by adding a BIG pusher fan (12V)in front of the radiator and install a low temp thermostat. Do not remove the thermostat completely because it "delays" the coolant flow in the radiator and lets it dissipate the heat better. If you remove it .. you will overheat. If you add the temp sensor for the fan remember the temps near the radiator are a lot lower than the rear so you have to kick the fan in earlier than the front temp requires or do what I did and put a switch under the dash for the fan.

If you listen to these A$$h0les and keep running/enjoying the vehicle you will eventually burn out the last cylinder.. most likely the valves. I am sure Kanter has an engine and/or head that he will be happy to sell you.

Convert the engine over to 12 volt .. it doesn't cost much at all. The starter is fine.. big cost is replacing the bulbs and the coil. If the a$$h0les start with their "keep it original" just remember .. the car has NO resale value or market especially if it is a "bathtub". Did you know the guy in Pennsylvania who is the Packard expert, hacks these Packard's up and makes them into pickup trucks ?
Speaks volumes doesn't it.

If I still had my bathtub I would have just replaced the engine with a late model big block or hemi and been done with it. Probably would have cost me a lot less than doing what I did.(BTW Kanter was REAL happy to take my credit card information) An added bonus to this would be sending him to the poor house then I would gladly send him some wise ass remarks.

good riddance

OTG

OTG, at the risk of invoking your wrath, I wish you'd edit your post. One thing that makes this forum so pleasant is the absence of snipes at individuals and vendors.

And I don't fully agree with your analysis; the purpose of the water distribution tube is to provide coolant equally to the front and rear cylinders and those in between. And if the cooling system is really marginal and it defies attempts to return it to OEM performance, pusher electric fans in 6-volt are commonly available.

Okay, I waited a while before I replied to ensure that I didn't flame a poster the way he did. O_D stated the premise correctly. We do not flame other posters regardless of how/what they post. WE, as a group, try to maintain civility even when it tests our mettle. If I can do that, anyone can.
Please edit your post and try to maintain the moderate tone we all strive for.

Don,

I'm not sure of the temperature requirement so I can't answer your question on that, but I did have the same problem with my '50 (288 engine).

After replacing the water pump with a rebuilt one, having the radiator checked and cleaned, setting the timing "by the book" (6 degrees past TDC), checked for good-strong firing from the distributor, pulled and cleaned the distribution tube and cavity, removed the freeze plugs and pressure washed the inside the cooling jacket best I could, replaced the timing chain (while I was there), none of which resolved the problem completely. It still ran hot but didn't boil over. Temp gage would get up to "H" and stay there, and only slightly come down with higher RPMs.

The remedy I finally discovered was to set the timing "by ear" - which ended up (with my engine) 12 degrees. Seems strange, but it starts fine and runs and idles at normal temp.

- Good luck!

A service station owner I knew by the name of John Wright taught me most of what I know about engines. He was one of those men who could listen to a car pull into the station and diagnose any problem the engine had by the time the driver had reached the pump and shut the engine down. And he diagnosed the engine correctly!

He once told me that it was senseless to set timing by the factory spec on old cars. The reason he gave had to do with the harmonic balancer, being part rubber, shifting over time. I may have not got the rubber part right, and may not apply to Packards, but the upshot is that the best way to time an engine in an old car is by ear. He said when it's right, regardless of what the pointer is pointing to, you'll hear it and feel it and know that the engine is happy.

For what it's worth.

The reason he gave had to do with the harmonic balancer, being part rubber, shifting over time.

Though there maybe exceptions, most timing marks are on the fixed part of the balancer attached directly to the crankshaft, not the rubber-mounted ring. But regardless, I agree with your mechanic, I've always been a big fan of timing "by ear" though after at chat with Ross Miller about this, the method may not work well on engines with low compression ratios.

Owen, Jim, and Sam, thanks for the responses. Several older responses also referred to timing, so I'm going to give it a try, but am not sure what I will be listening for. Is it just a matter of finding the timing point when the engine seems to run the smoothest?

I am also curious what effect a lead substitute gasoline additive has (good or bad) on the operating temperature of the engine.

While I am trying these various suggestions in my pursuit for a cooler running engine, I'd be a lot more comfortable knowing what the temperature danger zone is for this engine, so I can avoid doing any serious damage to it. If anyone knows, I'd welcome your comments.