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Isn't there a sealer meant for exhaust? When working on my dad's '38 we ran into an issue with the intake and exhaust manifolds not being square on the box. After machining one of them, we used a NOS gasket (metal on both sides) and coated all surfaces with this sealer. It sets up in less than a minute so we had to work fast. When we started the engine up for the first time there was no exhaust leak there (previous to rebuild there was). Unfortunately we couldn't check long term because of a failure in cylinder 2, but for the few minutes we had it running the gasket and sealer seemed to do its job.

I don't know the name of the sealer we used, as it was done by a guy we were working with.

Typically no sealer is used on exhaust manifold gaskets. If sealer is needed, then it is to patch something that should be properly fixed before too long.

Kevin, the exhaust manifold runs at a much higher temperature than the engine block to which it is fastened. Thus it wants to expand more lengthwise than the block. Thus there must be a little slip allowed by the gaskets, primarily at the extreme ends. Thus, no sealant on manifold to block gaskets. If a sealant is used and it survives the heat, the result will most probably be gasket failure.

Thanks all for the thoughts! No sealer needed, and like Dave says, not ideal for the application anyway. I went back after dinner, rechecked the bolts, with a torque wrench this time, and found two of the the three hot box bolts were a little loose. Tightened them, and voila, no leaks!

I also got quite a bit of the floor mat installed- I need to cut bigger holes around the accelerator linkage, mounting tab, and shift tower, but it is mostly there. Driving tomorrow!

One random thing - the top of the shifter cane is supposed to be threaded, right? Mine isn't. Looks like the same type of mechanic who arc welded the king pin retaining pins also cut 1/2" off the top of the cane. I may not be a pro mechanic, but I try to leave things better than I found them!

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I used to own a 1937 120 C 1092 Touring Sedan. It was in original condition and there was no threading on the top of the shifter cane. The shift knob is held to the cane by gravity. My 1933 1002 sedan is the same way.

Hello Kevin,
Make sure you tighten the manifold to the block first, the three hotbox bolts should be loose when you do so. I have learned this form experience, I am unsure why this is the correct sequence however the Packard maintenance manual describes this sequence and it works.
Regards Fred

Don, good to know, thanks! The knob has remnants of threads cut on the inside, so I jumped to conclusions! Still annoyed about the welding on the king pin retainer I guess. 🤣

Fred, thanks. That's ultimately what I did- I installed it with the two manifolds bolted together, then tightened the manifolds, then retightened the hot box bolts- now, no leaks!

Thanks,
Ken

Well, got it back on the road.

- with new king pins and a replacement shock, it drives great! I'll renew the oil in the steering gear after replacing the seal, but it drives infinitely better. Still feels a little more "wallowey" than I remember my 115, but maybe that's just rose colored glasses.

- seems to run much better now, but perhaps that's just wishful thinking. I thought I previously had a small vacuum leak from the warped/leaking manifolds, but wouldn't that make the car run lean? I've been fighting the opposite problem.

- next on the list is a valve adjustment. What is easier/ more effective? Hot running adjustment per the book, or adjust cold and add 0.002" or some other amount to the clearance? Mine are clearly loose.

Thanks, as always.

No question, not essential but best results are obtained doing a valve adjustment with the motor hot and idling.

I set the valve clearances in my 115C by first thoroughly warming up the engine then setting the clearances with the engine off.

First, I did all the prep work jacking up the car, removing the RF tire, removing the RH splash shield and then removing the tappet covers. There was some oil splashed around with the engine running with the covers removed.

I found this method much easier than trying to use two wrenches and a feeler gauge with the engine running. Even with the engine off it was a hot and messy job. Finally, I checked adjustments with engine idling. Results were most satisfactory. I used a "go-no go" feeler gauge, and followed the firing order.

Worked for me.