Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

i would avoid the e-ignition or HEI. Stay with the points. Points vs e-ignition is somewhat controversial. I just wouldn't make any more changes than necessary to get the chevy distributor installed. 6v positive ground has been known to play havoc with some (if not most or all) e-ignition set ups. Engines with 8:1 compression ratio or less will realize NO benefit from e-ignition other than freedom from points maintenance. But points maintenance/disgnostics is a relatively simple, cheap, fast and easy effort anyway so no real positive gain for that matter.

I'm interested in an HEI for my 56 Packard V8. BUT only because it is 10:1 compression AND 12v negative earth. Otherwise i would not ever consider it all. Only reason i am considering it is for some attempt at better gas mileage which i'm not sure will be significant anyway.

I thought it would be useful to close out this thread with a solution. Recall the topic was introduced because of the expense of the '38 Su8 Distributor cap (3 pieces $500-700). I'd like to give full credit to Stuart Blond at Kanter auto who suggested a replacement cap and rotor from the '38 120 which fits perfectly, and cost $35! It lets me run the engine on the stand, use better plug wires as it has a standard plug in set up, and I can continue to search to the 'grail' at a more attainable price. Curiously all I need is the 'female' thumb screw at the top (see attached photos)...tough to find so far. Thanks for all the responses. Knowing this level of expertise is reassuring when you're alone in the garage. Have a wonderful Holiday!

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Curiously all I need is the 'female' thumb screw at the top (see attached photos)...tough to find so far.

That is an interesting cap. Not much detail on the screw in the SM but looks like there is a long neck and probably a nonstandard thread. Victor Machine probably has the tread tap and would think a machinist could make the proper shaped nut out of brass--or would that cost as much as a new assy.

If any one has a brass cap nut like that, I could copy it.

I thought the nut was phenolic with a brass threaded insert.

Dear occaswright:

In the old days there was a guy who made modules for distributors that would use the points as the camshaft signal. This would provide life of the car points because it removed the 400v spike from the primary.

Now I'm not sure, but I think the early Chrysler modules can be adapted for this purpose given they used a ballast resistor. Now to run the module, I also think you can put an old 6v Harley Motorcyle battery in series to run the Chrysler driver and then run parallel taps off the 6 volt generator to keep it charged.

I like the carburetor idea because almost all of the old carburetors are worn out and causing harmful misfires. (except of course for display purposes). However, the only true solution is brand new carburetors which are not the same a rebuilts. Also, if the carburetor is post 1963 the motor needs to be modified to use a PCV otherwise the carburetor will be too rich and damage the motor. If you can get this stuff working don't forget a good air filter and have the emission results checked on a dyno to ensure that the motor is not running to lean on the road and subject to meltdown.

Hope this helps

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That would make sense. Color might not be perfect but I think one could be made that might get close to the original in looks by casting one of Devcons black repair epoxies around a threaded insert. The epoxy is good to 250 degrees & can be machined--or cast to shape if a mold was made. Would need a decent picture to copy or dimensions to figure out the original shape though.

No idea on the screw size but McMaster has a couple of long shoulder black Nylatron thumb nuts which might work or be able to be reworked.

apologies, there was supposed to be a fourth photo that shows the actual cap screw.Here it is, and you can see its coil wire function and the problem it creates. the functional alternative cap allows the opportunity to search for this item, and try some molding efforts. Thanks!

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Gosh, I am not sure how that differed from what I mentioned early in this thread, but am glad Stuart gets "full credit".

There's always plenty of credit to go around, especially on this very informative website. Your comment in the thread supported the 'just give your credit card and we'll mail it'solution offered by the person at Kanter, and helped me buy the right part. The result is a running engine, so everybody wins! Now if someone can locate one of those seemingly unique coil wire thumb screw connectors as pictured earlier above, I could satisfy the 'originality' side of this restoration, and move over to other threads. Thanks to all!