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Maaybe just look for some rubber stock or rubber moulding that is streight. Cut it to length and bend it into a cricle.

Probably put it in the freezer (most freezers will go to zero degrees F) or a very cold winter day aand then drill the holes.

If u really have to have the moulded shape of the contour there are special grinding wheels used for grinding rubber ala shoe and boot repair shops that use grinding wheels on a bench grinder to grind rubber heels etc.

WAIt a minute:
I have at least 25 or 30 of these rubber rings BUT they are no smaller than 8" ID. I simply can't remember what they were specifically used for. IIRC they were somekind of plumbing seal for most likely for PvC and were some COMMERCIAL or I'structural plumbing app such as gas x-mission. I just can't remeber.

BOTTOM LINE: Check with a commercial plumbing supply out fit to see if they have such rubber rings in the size u need.

OR, PM me your address and i'll send u 3 or 4 of these.

Better pics aand dimensions if u need them.

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I think they were rubber seals used for mating two pipes together where one pipe is flaanged and the other pipe is cut to fit and the rubber acts as seal. No doubt made in smaller sizes.

AHA!!! i found some nomencalture mouldedd into the rubber (they were real dirty).

WIth careful typing:
" Made in Costa Rica M 090 C23 HT574 - HT207 NSF SB. 92:93:94:95:96 6 IN TYTON"

I'm guessing Tyton is the mfg'er. It's 1 inch thicck.
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pic

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I've wondered about using that Leak Seal Coating to make rubber gaskets. How it would work....... John

If the AC rubber is hard, why not use some PC-7 to repair the area where the screw holes are broken. The drill new hole somewhere else where it is not broken. install and use a stretchy PVC tape or thin foam weather stripping for sealing?

All good options. I didn't see anything at McMaster that would be appropriate or even the right size but I am still going to try my hand at casting new out of urethane rubber.

I believe this one I have was originally a shade of gray. Don't believe it is painted but maybe it was black and has badly faded. This one has sort of an alligator skin pattern to the rubber so wonder if that was deliberate or is just old age checks. Kev, what does the finish on yours look like? If I can tint the UV stabilized urethane what would go with your package shelf or should I stay with black or try for gray.

Being in the heart of Silicon Valley, there are prototypers and short-run shops here of every type so I've taken it upon myself, and I hope you don't mind, to make a couple inquiries to see what they might be able to do as I am interested in these parts too, or for that matter, in any '53-'54 Packard A/C parts as I would love to reproduce systems for my own cars. I am a journeyman toolmaker myself and went through the early part of my apprenticeship in injection molding/moulding but am long retired, unfortunately. Otherwise I would simply make a mold which shouldn't be all that difficult once the dimensions have been established.

Kev,
How long are the A/C tubes?

I have seen different lengths used depending on the car and if it was 2 or 4 door. I think the rear glass was the deciding factor. The Packards with aftermarket A/C I have seen, the A/C tubes were secured to the trim at the closest trim screw hole. I had a 56 Clipper that used about an inch piece of aluminum to secure the tube to the trim screw hole.

If I remember correctly, Henry's grandfather 55 Clipper with the Pivot A/C from Memphis, the duct holders were cast metal.

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