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I'd be interested in seeing it. I have a schematic for a 12 volt version from a Pop Mech. article back in 1966. John

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I would go overkill on the components to give a margin of error if something went amiss and generator started to put out more current than anticipated. Would also have some sort of adjustment circuit where you could regulate the output down if needed to work with a year having a generator that cannot put out as much current.

Most of the 50s 6v generators and regulators Packard used are actually rated at 45 amps so unless you are planning your regulators to be year or model specific I would accommodate the higher outputs in case someone wanted to put on a heavy duty generator like those used in ambulances or some commercial vehicles at 60 or so amps to use for an AC system or the like.

Although I understand basic electronic components and their functions, I am not an engineer but making it adjustable is on my list. That should not be too difficult but reversing the ground is another story and don’t even know where to begin, much less make it switchable!

John, I would love to see what ‘60s solid state technology looks like! That was the era when they were making solid state vacuum tube replacements, one or two types of which are still available. None for Packard radios, though, other than solid state vibrators.

I’ve been at my Oregon shop for just over a week with another week to go but haven’t been able to get in any quality car time due to the strand board being installed by a contractor who often needs my help.

However, the last time I was here and moving parts for the insulation being done at that time I came across a firewall grille for the fresh air that was different than the others and it had me puzzled but it turns out that it is for 1954! So many parts for 1954 are different but I didn’t except something like this to be.

In the photo, the one on the left is 1954 while the other is 1951-1953 and I have quite a few of those.

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In late 53 the 54 firewall vent pattern was also suggested as a mod for earlier models if an owner wanted a more direct flow.

The vent that is really different is the one for the AC systems. It is the only one listd in the parts book and so far I have not found documentation or a part number when they changed to the clear tubes. That flat AC vent has the same outside shape and size but the louver vanes are straight across and at a slight angle to direct air to the front.

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When I used to offer Service Counselor reprints through the Packard Club's Projects under my old Packards California business name, I remember seeing that modification. The earlier louvers were considerably narrower than the actual 1954 louver though so even with the two cut off, it was an obvious modification.

On the clear tubes, I presume you mean for the rear shelf? If so, I am not sure it was ever a change as much as that dealers would retrofit cars if owners wanted. I have nothing to confirm one way or the other so am basing it only on observation.

Is it just me or does the 1954 part look bigger than the other? Maybe it's just a trick of the lens.

At some point I will need to get a couple of these vents to replace mine, as they were missing when I got the car. The question I have is would the '54 part be the right one for a '54 Clipper. It seems that a lot of the parts on the '54 Clipper were leftovers from '53.

-Kevin

I suspect the 54 item is what was used and would fit but at the worst, they are only held by the decorative cardboard firewall pad cover. If Clippers did use the earlier item and it is smaller it would be easy to trim a bit of cardboard if needed so the larger one would fit.

More important is on the back of the vent. The grill is held by a plastic stud on each side which is a molded part of the vent. A flat style Tinneman or spring nut grabs onto the stud and holds it to the cardboard. Frequently people are not aware of that arrangement and try to just pull them off breaking the stud. Other times when trying to remove the Tinneman nut the tangs are not released from the stud first and the stud still breaks. If you find a pair of vents check the back sides and make sure the studs are still good before buying them or else be prepared to fabricate some other arrangement to hold them on.

It wasn’t a trick of the lens but they are indeed the same size. After I noticed the same thing, I looked again and saw that the earlier one had a side to side warp which made it appear smaller. I have four others that are not warped but just happened to grab the one that was! Last time I was here I dropped and broke one but not sure if it was the other ‘54 one or an earlier one as I hadn’t yet at that time noted the difference.

I picked up the new aluminum head yesterday after leaving it off last time I was here to be cleaned, dye tested for cracks and have stainless inserts put into the spark plug holes and thermostat housing holes. I purposely did not have it milled and, other than a couple tiny spots of very minimal corrosion that you can’t even really feel, it looks like new!

The one currently in my Patrician has had repairs around the thermostat flange area and still has much corrosion there so it took great effort a while back to get it to stop leaking!

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