Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

The bolt pattern doesn't matter but a reasonably good one sells for about $50 online, possibly a little more in stores, or you can rent a heavy duty one. 1955 was the last year for the tapered axle shaft on Packard and Packard Clipper and the puller I bought in the '60s which looks much like this one is still going strong. You'll also need a sledge hammer to strike the arms although I've found that it most cases my impact wrench works well too.

Just an added note. Once you loosen the nut, leave is screwed on even with the end of the shaft as it's not uncommon for the drum to come off almost explosively! The nut will keep it from frying across the room. When reassembling the drum, be sure that the taper and hole in the drum are shiny and smooth without any oil or grease of any kind.

Hee is a link to the puller like the one Don mentioned at Amazon
Kevin also mentioned this puller in his blog on brakes

These drums are very often listed as being a problem to remove.
Here is a link to a YouTube video from Lever Family Racing's 55 Patrician

Be sure to tighten the lug bolts in a crossing pattern and torque to spec before using the puller, otherwise it may distort the bolts. Replacement bolts are available from auto parts stores, FYI.

Be sure to coat the entire screw, and the end against the axle, with #2 wheel bearing grease. Very important.

I'm glad they changed in 56.

Studebaker was like that had to use a puller

I think the 36 12 is like that.

Even my three 1964 Imperials were like that with the change happening for the 1965 model year as found on my current 1965 Imperial LeBaron.

I bought my puller from Amazon. Works well, haven't had any issues. The tip on greasing the screw on the puller is a good one. They don't come very well lubricated.

Video showing rear drum removal:


The video from Lever Family Racing uses a different type of puller that you can rent from the parts stores. It doesn't work as well. Use one of the big 3 leg pullers that has a dog bone attachment.

Side note it can take like 400 ft lbs of torque on the puller if the rear drums have not been off in a long time especially on a rusty car.

All really good information thank you guys

I will definitely be sure to get that puller from Amazon cause that really is a cheaper and seems to be a better option then what my local parts stores were offering me so thanks for that.

I'll have to remember that tip about greasing everything, I already plan to degrease and then repacking all new grease into all of the wheel bearings and such so it's good to know I'll need to do the screws and everything too.

And it good to know I can also have a video to fall back onto for more or less step by step guidance when going through the rear brakes cause I already know there gonna be a little different then the front so that's great thank you.

I'll definitely be ordering everything I need to do the rear brakes soon but if I don't talk to yall again before Christmas I just wanna make sure I wish yall a Marry Christmas just in case

It's also not just the thightenting of the puller breaks the drum free of the tapered axle, but also the shock from hammering on dog-bone in conjunction with it.

There hasn't been one drum that hasn't come off for me in just a couple of mins with a good dead blow hammer.

It takes more hammering then you would think. You have to beat on it like it owes you money.

I've never had to use heat, leave it overnight, or drive around with the nut loose. The proper puller and a good hammer will remove even the most stubborn drum. Folks get into trouble when they try to use other styles of pullers.

This is the one I use. It's a vintage Bluepoint Tapered Axle puller that I found at a swap meet. It could seperate the hubs of hell.