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Mike - I may just run without the upper stainless trim for a bit like you did and see how it goes. We're still pretty cold here....20's at night and 50's during the day, so the rubber isn't going to get soft anytime soon. The car is stored indoors, but the garage is usually only 50-60 degrees.

BigKev - I tried putting in the stainless before I put in the lock strip, but it just wasn't working. Maybe I wasn't doing it right, but I just couldn't get it to seat at all. It doesn't appear to be any different with the lock strip in. It's definitely possible that the lock strip is designed to hold the trim in place.

But I agree that the trim isn't seating all the way. I used soap and wire to get one of the corners seated (very difficult), but the wire just kept getting it the way for the rest of it. It would pull the trim out when I pulled the wire. After I get the rubber warm I'll mess with it some more and see what I can do.

-Kevin

Kevin, I'm attaching some photos of my '54 Convertible's windshield trim for your comparison. My windshield appears to be original or if replaced it was done decades ago. Yours dosen't look that bad even with the Steele gasket when compared to mine. Keep up the good work and best of luck with your project.

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Don - that is extremely helpful, thank you. Your photos look much closer to what I'm seeing right now versus what my car had originally. If I can get my stainless to seat properly then it should look very close to what you have.

-Kevin

You're very welcome, Kevin. I was impressed by the neatness of your windshield's original installation versus mine. Of course the most important thing is how the gasket seals, not so much how it looks. Mine completely seals, no leaks. I hope yours does the same.

That's a good point Don. I guess I should have checked for leaks before I put all the interior trim back in. I guess I can always pull it back out and check.


Haven't had a lot of time the past couple nights, but I have done at least a few things. I marked the locations for the holes through the windshield gasket to install the center trim piece. Drilling went fine with no damage to the windshield. I blasted and painted the mounting hardware (completely caked in rust), then installed the center trim piece. I haven't done the side trim yet....just test fit for now.

And as I stated above I installed the interior trim around the windshield. Upper trim, lower trim, mirror. It's starting to look a little more complete. I need to figure out what I'm going to do with my sunshades. Both upholstery places around here say they can't do them....something about the binding around the outside. But I need to get those redone and back in the car.....it will complete the front.

Also, the interior of the car was a wreck, so I cleaned it up. Cuttings from the headliner, tools, soap, dust, dirt, etc. Now it at least looks presentable.

-Kevin

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Good Morning Kevin...You might wish to check with one of the companies who restore/maintain Packards. Those shades could be shipped/sent to a place to repair/reupholster them easily. You might start with Robert Escalante at Custom Auto in Santa Ana, California. He has restored Packards for 50 years.714-543-2970.

Now that the windshield is in, I'm moving on to the brakes. I'm planning on replacing all the hard lines, all the rubber lines, new wheel cylinders, and new pads. Not sure if I need to replace all the springs and hardware inside the drums.

I'm sourcing pads from RockAuto, rubber lines from Napa, premade brake lines from Napa (still need to be bent), and am trying to find the correct wheel cylinders. Does it matter what the bore size is on the cylinders? I'm seeing variations from 1" - 1 1/8".

While I'm in there I need to fix a leaking axle seal on the drivers rear axle. A couple months back when it got really cold, I noticed a small puddle of axle oil dripping down the inside of the rear tire. Maybe the seal shrunk in the cold? Haven't really seen it since, but I'm assuming gear oil isn't good for the bearings. I can't find seals or bearings on the parts cross reference, so I may need to order a kit from Kanter.

Lastly, while I have the front disassembled I need to figure out how to replace the front coil springs. I picked up some replacements from Tucson while I was down there since my driver's front is 1" lower than the passenger. Fun times ahead!

-Kevin

I might suggest that you have your wheel and master cylinders sleeved. I have done that with several of my restorations, brass or stainless steel will not rust as the cast iron does. You can also buy a fifty foot roll material that is very bendable ( I don't recall the name, but sure Howard does) and bend and flare away.

On my '54 Deluxe, I was able to source a new master cylinder from eBay and wheel cylinders from NAPA. They are standard Wagner part numbers.

But, I know the brakes are different between Deluxe and Supers as Supers used the '53 style larger drums and Deluxes used the smaller drums that 55s used. (see Service Counselors and Service Letters on the subject of '53 parts used on '54 Supers)

So you may want to look at what '53 Clippers call for as far as brake parts, as the '54s get murky with aftermarket retailers as I am not sure that the model differences are correctly reflected in their systems.

The new nickel copper brake line tubing is nice they say. Doesn't rust, easier to work with than stainless brake line.
John