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No one is with me so, can I depress the clutch pedal with a 2x4 and then go under and do the deed?

Yes.

If you elevate the car, make sure it is very secure!

The clutch fiction disc is located between the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. You are looking to establish freedom of movement between those two surfaces. You might want to first check the clutch pedal free play; ideally about 1 inch of free motion at the top and if more than that, you may have the situation that when the clutch pedal is fully depressed to the floor board there hasn't been enough movement of disengage the clutch. Simple adjustment of a turnbuckle or similar if you find too much pedal free play.

Here are a couple of photos of the assy. What has typically happened when in this condition is the friction surface of the driven plate has stuck to either the flywheel metal or the pressure plate metal.

The objective would be to release all pressure via depressing and holding the clutch pedal so whatever space is available between components could separate. Once some room has developed something very thin could be inserted so the two surfaces could be forced apart. Holding the clutch pedal down with wood would be acceptable. Just make sure it is secure and won't fall away while you are maneuvering under the car.

No idea how much space between components when released is normal but probably no more than 1/8" or so. The area to insert the tool is indicated by the arrows. Also need to work the tool so as to present as flat a surface as possible to the components to avoid gouging the friction material. If you can't get it free from one opening, you may have to rotate the engine slightly so the openings change position.

If the car has OD, in addition to the regular bolts from below holding the lower flywheel cover to the bellhousing, there is a bolt on the bottom of trans coming into the lower flywheel cover from the rear. Sometimes that has been covered with grease and hard to see.

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Just to add to what HH56 has provided, the other possibility and one I've seen often enough is that the clutch disc hub has rusted to the transmission input shaft splines. Should this be the case and I hope it's not, you may end up removing the transmission and the pressure plate to free it up. If so, pin-punch the pressure plate and flywheel to make sure you reinstall in the same position.

But first things first, please do check the pedal free play!

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Good advice from O_D and HH56. Also check for badly worn linkage.

(o{}o)

It worked BUT now the right front wheel is frozen. I'm thinking its the brakes?? You guys helped me with one problem care to make it two-please?

There is a good chance that the wheel cylinder on that wheel has leaked. But to get the car moving and out where you can look at it I would back off the adjustment on that wheel about 15 clicks and then rock the car with the engine a bit till it breaks free.

To back off the adjustment, insert the brake tool in the slot and push your end of the tool down. Suggest you look at all the brakes sooner rather than later.

Ross,
I'm pretty much a novice so you'll need to be more specific at to exactly what you mean--please.
Thanks

I'll assist Ross and post photos with the arrow pointing to the pertinent item. The star wheel is turned by using a flat bladed tool inserted thru the slot in the backing plate and moving the free end up or down. The notched wheel has a spring under it so each movement of the tool turns the wheel against the spring pressure so it rotates a notch or two at a time. When looking for the slot, there may be a rubber protection cover over it which you will need to pry out.

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It's unclear if you need more help beyond what HH56 has illustrated. If you have sufficient room where the vehicle is parked to work at the frozen wheel, jack it off the ground and secure it with a jackstand. It will be easier if you first remove the tire/wheel. Then remove the grease cap on the brake drum - it just presses in and there are special pullers for it but normally just work around the perimeter between the drum and the lip of the cover with a broad screw driver to remove it. Then remove the cotter pin and wheel bearing retaining nut. Then extract the wheel bearing and associated parts. Assuming the brake shoes aren't holding it, just wiggle the drum off.

Looking at this as well as your prior problem, it seems this car has been stored in a very damp location; if so everything in the hydraulic brake system would be suspect so as Ross suggested, you may be in for a total brake job including all the steel lines which may look great on the outside but be severely corroded on the inside. When there is the faintest bit of doubt, replace!

Though it's possible to rotate the brake adjuster with a broad screwdriver, it will be far easier with the simple tool illustrated in HH56's picture. It's commonly called a "brake spoon" and should be easy to find in an auto parts store.

Owen,

I should do what you say first before I turn the little star wheel? The car was driven regular up until mid June and has sat since then.