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How does it connect to the ignition system???? Is there a "number of cylinders" dial or switch or adjustment????

OR to ask the question another way, will it work on ANY number of cylinders from 1 to 16 including engines with odd number of cylinders such as 3 or 5 or 7 or 9 ???

cgi.ebay.com/Tiny-Tach-TT226NR-2C-Tachom ... DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414fb8bf12


There are variations of the above tachomter. They usualy use a watch battery or maybe a AAA battery. Real easy to connect to any ignition system because there is only one wire. One wire that u would connect to any spark plug wire.

I've never used one but they are quite common among the m/c and small engine world where there are such variations of cylinders, cycle strokes, etc. and NO battery.

I've seen some as cheap as $20. However i have heard that they tend to be very short life units. I don't know.

If you look at the picture you will notice it has a 4-6-8 settings on both the Tach and Dwell functions. This is not an inductive type. The leads hook between the negative side of the coil and ground (like a traditional tach/dwell meter). I think it just measures the pulses, so I believe it is not 6/12 volt sensitive. But I am sure a call to their customer service number would get you an answer.

Now my ignition is 12v but is feed through a ballast resistor. So I will have to check what the input voltage to the coil actually is.

The manual also covers coil testing, Hall Effect sensor testing, Magnetic Pick-up Coil testing, Reluctance Sensor testing, Coil Switching Action testing. Also alt/gen load testing, battery check, and all the other other car related testing. There is also a section on testing O2, MAP, MAF, BARO, and Throttle sensors. Not that any of our Packard have anything close to those.

Lots of features packed into a sub-$40 unit.

The link I provided is to the manufactures page, I think they have all the specs on there as to what it does.

Got everything prepped for tomorrows priming and inner fender painting. Laid down masking paper on the support tables, and also across the work bench/mixing station. Made sure that all the moisture was drained from the compressor, and all the water traps.

Laid out all the paint, primer, reducer and activator, thinner for initial panel wipedown and gun cleaning.

Pulled out the respirator, and some gloves. I am hoping for a running start early in the morning.

Just have to move the cars out of the driveway and put them on the street, out of the drifting overspray zone. I'm hoping for no/light wind in the morning.

I will blow the fenders off with compressed air to get of any loose dust and residual blasting media, and then a final wipe-down with thinner.

Then onto the primer mixing, gun filling, and spray pattern adjustments. The actual primer spraying is the easy part. The gun cleaning is always the part I hate the worst.

I will attempt to take pictures along the way.

Quote:
The only downside to the tiny tach is the update time of 2 1/2 sec

To REMOVE dust and other very tiney debris from surfaces to be painted buy some Tack Cloth. Be forwarned that hte tach cloth is very sticky to the touch and to the hands. Enuf so that those that have never used it are skepticle to use it. I've used it many times and it leaves the surface (primed) 100% clean of even the tiniest of dust particles.

The tack cloth resembles cheese cloth impregnated with bees wax. Again it is highly recommended. Especialy for laquer.

Be sure that the compressor is drained of water and that u have a good drier in the air line nearest the compressor.

Also set up a strong fan in a window to keep a lite breeze blowing acorss the work to prevent overspray. Check the local pollen count.

Best time to spray is about 70-80 degres F with a lite breeze blowing AFTER A LITE RAIN. This is often difficult to time. Pollen here in middle tn. is a REAL PROBLEM!!

Hi BigKev: very nice car you have. I'm trying to post a new wanted ad; I'm new to the format and am having trouble posting the ad. Here it is: Wanted; 1953 PACKARD nos or aftermarket heater control valve for my 53 coupe. Email me at schockme@ix.netcom.com with price and shipping to 95008 USA.

Thanks Kev. BTW, someone on line tried to help me to post the item but to no effect. He said to go to the home page, select packard forums, then link post war forum (which I cannot find) and then top right.....link to new topic forum...(which I also cannot find) and fill in subject...is this right?

I'm new to this stuff and cannot find the obvious link. I also need to remove the heater core and perhaps rebuild it and replace the heater control valve. My wife is complaining of water dripping onto her shoes...LOL....any help you offer would be appreciated....send to schockme@ix.netcom.com

All the best.

Dr. K

Quote:Ken,
That was me, and guilty as charged! But I now have the opportunity to formally you to PackardInfo. Sorry my off the cuff instructions didn't help, but I tried!

And having revealed to me in the Chatroom that you have three '53 Packards, including the '53 Clipper Coupe the heater valve is required for I have to ask, could you please include your Packards in the Packard Owner's Registry here, together with pic's, any known history and how you acquired them?