Packard Forum Index » General

My mechanical neighbor has volunteered to replace my nasty tappet, although he has never worked on a Packard before. This is a simple project, meaning that the heads will stay on.

I have ordered the gaskets for the carb, intake manifold, valve covers and the covers for the tappets. What else should I have ordered?

I will be ordering tappets.

We have the manual which details some good points, but does not walk you through the basics.

What advice can you provide? One issue: how many tappets to replace. My guy thinks they are easy to find. I have doubts and would just as soon replace the set.

FWIW car runs very well except for tappet noise which we think is just one of the little stinkers. It has an olds oil pump, uses a quart of oil every 700 miles or so....much of which leaks out an old rear main seal.

Sly tricks of the trade?

I doubt you'll find new OEM Packard lifters but Federal Mogul (Sealed Power) HT-879 is the usual substitute. These were originally designated for a Chrysler V8. I purchased mine from NAPA, I believe all the Packard vendors have them as well though perhaps not at as good a price.

Lots of folks have successfully just changed lifters but many a good mechanic will tell you that best practice is to replace the camshaft at the same time you install new lifters if there is any question at all about lobe wear.

There are lots of others who will no doubt come forward that have a lot more experience with the V8 that I do.

This sounds like a topic for Jack Vines.

I would ask if there is a problem mixing new tappets with a seasoned camshaft. I believe I read on this site that the Chrysler hydraluic tappets are not right for the Packard V-8, and only passing this on without any direct knowledge.

Other than this the usual things to look for in an OHV engine; bent push rods, worn push rod ends; and worn rocker arms; worn rocker shafts; and worn valve stem ends.

Be careful to replace things in the right order and location. Some kind of organization will be needed to keep push rods, rocker arms, and other parts in the correct order.

Also, be on the lookout for valve stem seals that are coming apart.

Actually once you have taken the engine down to this level it is not too much more work to just remove the heads and do a valve job with new stem seals.

(o{}o)

I have a rattle can 327 ,Ive replaced the rings, and the bearings are in good shape on the lower end ;- and now want to do the valve train ;valves /seats /guides /hydrolic lifters /cam ,im looking for a s.f. bay area mechanic wh will do the work on an old thunderbolt anyone know anyone?

As long as you are doing that, just going one step further will.......

I love the car. If if if I had the moxie and the money I'd have it rotisseried....


Meantime, I do what I can.....

I'm running the 879 lifters in my 56 Exec now for over 20K miles no problem. Look at the X-ref for a few more details. IIRc they are 318 chrysler V8 lifters.

As JW points out u mite want to take a look at the valve seals. THe OEM umbrella type that slide over the stem of the valve and under the spring is a a poor designed. USed by several manufacturers but still a piss poor design. There is also an oem seal on the spring retainer. Good design but probably gone bad by now.

Pat, I understand you not wanting to go any further and remove the heads. When I was refreshing the engine compartment in my 55 Clipper I had everything off and out. The heads would have been easy to remove and have a valve job done, but I too decided not to do this. One thing I regret not doing at that time was replacing the seal in the front cover. Oh well. Good luck on your lifter replacement job.

(o{}o)

Quote:

Yes, but ONLY the 318 as used 67, maybe 68, passenger cars and all 59-68 truck.

Also used in 1959 Chrysler 326 V8, and 57-60 AMC 327 V8.

Quote:

Is this something that requires removing the heads? What are we looking for here?

R&R valve seals does not require removal of the head. IIRC procedure is covered in SM. Mite require removeal of heater box tho.

Look thru the coils of each spring. There should be a rather large rubber upside-down thimble type thing that rides on the valve stem. If the sides of the seal are broken, or if the seal is dropped down over the guide or the seal has become hardened like a piece of plastic then there could be problems.

Broken off pieces will wind up clogging the oil pump screen. Again this type of valve seal (umbrella shedder) is a common type of seal used thru out various (but not all) manufactureres of OHV engines. It is a piss poor method.

JV has come up with a POsitive Valve Seal retro fit for the PV8's but it mite require removal of head. I don't know. Mite want to talk to JV about it.

On my engine i am using a MoPar seal inplace to the OEM Packard seal. I don;t really like it but it was all i could come up with some 8 years ago or so.

If u replace with umbrella shedder type seal then make sure it has an inner diameter that is AT LEAST as large as the OEM seal. If it small (such as Ford umbrellas) it will pinch down on the guide and starve the guide for oil.