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I have been offered a replacement for the speedometer cable that is only the inner piece of wire/cable. No ends, no outer cable/bx/flex.

What is involved in making this switch? Special tools, other parts?

Degree of difficulty?????

Not too much problem to change. Usually the stop or retaining end is at the top so all is done from inside the car -- if the cable is intact. After the nut is unscrewed from speedo, the cable is pulled out. Just be careful not to let the cable flop around and get lube on the upholstery.

Unless it is a finished Packard cable of the proper length, you will need some kind of end for the new cable though. Typical aftermarket cables have one end formed and nothing on the other. After the cable is cut to length the top fitting with the stop is either crimped on or attached using heat setting glue or epoxy. Packard uses the square end as shown in this kit. The new cable is lubed and fed down the housing to seat in gear at trans end.

If the cable has been reversed and stop is at lower end, then it's more difficult because you have to crawl under to pull the cable out. If the cable is broken or has frayed then it can be a challenge to get out and you may need to work from both ends. You will need something to cut the cable and crimp the end if it is the crimp style.

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Look closely at any replacement cable. Look at which way it is spiral twisted.

The only way to get a speedo cable/core already made to the precise length is to buy a complete speedo cable assembly - that is, cable/core and housing/sheath - by specific vehicle application (which can get rather complicated in later years).

The universal, trim-to-fit, replacement cable cores have always come with only one end finished.

Speedo shops used to be plentiful and would custom make up a cable/core to fit. Some of the old-timey parts stores would even finish a kit for you. Unfortunately, those places a now far and few between, thanks to age of the digital dashboard.

Back in the early 1980s), the parts manager where I worked had special tool (supplied by AC) that consisted of a set of two substantial dies with vee'd jaws; the upper die was over an inch in diameter, IIRC. You mounted the lower die in a bench vise, inserted the trimmed end of cable between the two dies and gave the top of the upper die a whack with a suitable hammer to form the squared drive end. The tool worked beautifully - that is, until the day that a large chunk of steel broke off of the jaw of the upper die. Replacement parts for that tool were apparently not serviced, and a complete new tool was rather pricey.

By then, AC was supplying the universal replacement cable kits with DIY fittings for the trimmed end. One with some sort of heat-activated cement didn't very work well for us. There was also a metal fitting with a hollow end to accept the trimmed cable that you placed in the diamond-shaped opening of the provided, flat tool (shown in the image of the preceeding post) and then crimped onto the cable with a hammer.

I think you'd be hard-pressed to fab a die set that would precisely form the cable to the proper shape. Even if you could find some sort of crimper for this purpose, it's probably not worth the investment for a one-time job. Better to use the throw-away tool supplied with the kit, but make sure that whoever is going to do the work can read, understand, and follow the directions.

Also, be sure to lubricate the new cable with suitable grease as you feed it into the housing/sheath; Lubriplate is my preference.

The cable is just that--a cable, with no other bits with it. If anyone has done this, I'd sure like to hear whether this is doable, or do I need bits not readily available? Can the old bits be used or are they one time crimped or welded or soldered or held on with dried spit?

Max has the whole cable for about $100, which I am reluctant to part with....

You can buy universal cable kits from almost any parts store for $15 or less. Here is one from ebay but store is listed as Autozone.http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251381271491?lpid=82 The cable can be cut to length with a hammer and cold chisel. Depending on the kit, the end fitting is glued, crimped, or held on with spit. You could shop around to find one that works with what tools you have. I don't remember which brand but that one had adhesive already in the fitting. You held fitting with pliers, used a lighter on the end to melt the glue and then inserted the cable into the end and let the adhesive harden around the cable to lock it in place.

The last time I made up an inner cable from one of these "universal" kits was a while back; the kit came with an assortment of end fittings which, after selecting the correct ones I soldered on after cutting to the proper length. But check the sheath carefully, if it's defective it will wipe out the new inner cable just as it did the older one.

If you're handy with tools, measurements and soldering, do it yourself. If not, buy it.

Hi Pat, I needed a new cable, I was able to buy a used great condition cable and sheath from Ross on this forum for my '53 2662. Replacement of the whole unit about 45 mins. Just undo the unit from the trans and back of spedo head, pass the spedo head sheath end through the fire wall and reverse the replacement process. Check around, original used units (spedo cable and sheath) are readily available no muss or fuss. Hope this helps.