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I'm looking for your educated opinion.

Over the winter my 1940 - 110 - developed a water leak around the water pump, seemed to be at the gasket. Tightening the bolts to the pump seems to have stopped the leak except for minor seepage around the weep hole on the pump. A neighbor says that I should replace the gasket to be sure the problem is solved long term even though it seems to have stopped leaking after tightening the bolts. What are the thoughts of the group?

Attempt to replace just the gasket, cutting a new one from sheet gasket material.

Order a replacement pump and gasket

Order a replacement pump and gasket and also order a set of motor mounts as the center mount seems to interfere with the lower water pump bolt.

Do nothing, just wait and observe considering that the car won't travel more than a couple of hundred miles at most over the year.

Thanks, Jim

IMO it never hurts to have a spare pump. Even though the car isn't out much things can still fail. If murphy visits, then it would be just your luck when you do go out all kinds of interesting things happen to something you thought had been fixed.

Kanter has new repros so you could buy new and still have your old core to rebuild at some point -- although the cost of a rebuild is probably close to the repro price.

If you do keep the old pump in operation, Max has ready made individual gaskets for $3 each so unless you enjoy doing that kind of stuff, the price is low enough to not bother.

The motor mount isn't going to get any better. Since you have to be working in the area anyway, might be just as well to do that too.

Next Problem:

Received the replacement water pump and some other parts from Kanter, however while removing the pump one of the bolts snapped leaving maybe 3/8 protruding. I've sprayed PB Blaster on the remaining bit.

Before I attempt to remove the remains of this bolt with vice grips are there any better/superior methods?

I don't object to hiring a pro for the job, however I'm not having much luck finding anyone in the area that wants to work on an old car.

Thanks, Jim

As many techniques for this problem as there are folks who have faced the problem, or nearly so. Heating the broken bolt end with a torch while tapping lightly to break the rust and trying a vise-grip is one that has worked well for me if there is enough left protruding to grip. Another is to weld a nut to the remaining end of the bolt. If the remaining end is too short to get a grip on or weld a nut to, filing it off flush and drilling it is another method. I DO NOT recommend using an easy-out as if it breaks off (and they do it all to often) they you are really stuck as easy-outs are extremely hard (and brittle) steel. Keep drilling with successively larger drills until you just approach the threads, then you usually can pick the remainder out with something like a dental pick. Just make very sure you start the first drill DEAD CENTER.

PS - Remember when reinstalling to use gasket shellac on the threads as they go into the water jacket. Also note which bolts use a copper sealing washer under the head - you should be also able to identify these by the recess on the pump casting.

Hi Jim:

It's not often those bolts break off like that, but when they do it is a big problem. Probably there was a rust
ridge that interfered with the thread. I used to avoid that problem by working those bolts back and forth with a T-bar. They use to yell about the extra time but I just told them to shut the hxll up.

Firstly, you will need some good cobalt drill bits.

Secondly, access is a problem and I doubt any success will be achieved trying to work over the fenders. Thus, pull the hood, radiator, and grill. Cut a shield out of heavy cardboard to prevent damage to the radiator.

Thirdly, if you don't have experience doing that kind of stuff then check around machine shops and get a fellow to come out to your place and do the job.

Hope this helps.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments.

"PS - Remember when reinstalling to use gasket shellac on the threads as they go into the water jacket. Also note which bolts use a copper sealing washer under the head - you should be also able to identify these by the recess on the pump casting."

Dave, washers were split ring lock washers, I'll try to find some copper sealing washers, I see the recess on 2 locations on the new pump casting. When I look for gasket shellac what sort of container should I be expecting? I asked for gasket sealer at NAPA and was given a tube or RTV silicone which doesn't sound like what I really needed.

"Thirdly, if you don't have experience doing that kind of stuff then check around machine shops and get a fellow to come out to your place and do the job."

Tim, your third suggestion would definitely be my first choice, 50 years ago maybe, but today I don't think I feel that talented, just hope there is a talented fellow in the area willing to take on the job.

Thanks, Jim

Jim - I don't even keep silicone sealant in my garage, it causes more problems than it solves! You can either ask your parts store for good old-fashioned gasket shellac like Indian Head, or just use one of the Permatex gasket pastes.

It continues to amaze me how many folks miss the fact the a couple of the bolt heads are sealed with a copper washer, glad you examined the casting and took note of their location. With good sealant on the threads it may not be necessary, but it's the proper installation.

Dave, long ago as a teenager driving dad's Packard I was comfortable with cars, knew where to shop and who to ask, even the former Packard dealer was still available, but life happened and over the last 50 years efforts went into home and family, these days I'm trying to pick up where I left off long ago, but it doesn't come easy, I'm more in my element with household repairs and woodworking.

Jim