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Those grooves are the actual ports to the rotor. Oil enters one side where the rotors have gaps starting to open because of the offset and is swept around and exits the other groove as the gaps start to narrow.

What's the recipe, if you don't mind sharing?

if you mean the dunk tank of witch's brew...then it is just purple power degreaser that has been used about 1000 times over and is filled with grease and oils, but the seem to help the breaking down of the crap that is stuck to the old parts.

put in some fresh purple power every year or so is what i do to refresh it.

eventually, since it ends up looking like used oil, i dump it at the auto store for recycling. they never argue.

Hank

the rebuild kit finally came in. should beable to start this weekend.

Hank

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finally i was able to spend some time on the pump. i got it out of the bath and washed everything down and then hand brush/polished them to a nice clean surface and shine, even the springs which will never be seen. also the inside of the reseviour.

then i primed with some overkill 2000 degree flat engine paint on the parts that would require final painting with 500 degree semi-gloss engine paint.

Hank

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Looking purrrrrrty Hank..........

final paint is on all the parts now. the body is assembled and ready for the cannister to top it off. i'm just giving it plenty of time to dry the paint before i do that. ran into some painting troubles early on, which required starting over. it turned out in the end though.

(see crinkly photo, and don't worry i fixed it...see photo after that.)

i used all stainless hardware. i painted the other parts clear that were bare metal so they wouldn't re-rust over time. i resued the copper seal that was on it as they are usually in good shape and the one supplied by max is too big imho. if not i'll be returning all the old parts with the pump, so the one from max will be in there to try if the old one leaks...shouldn't though. i also used the modern bearing clip as the old ones are always worn on one side from the bearing moving in and out. the new one is much tighter and wont let the bearing move...also a stronger material, then the thin wire retainer.

i lubed everything before assembly also so it wont dry start.

should have it done by the end of this week and ready for Kevin to give it a try. And after all i've ben through it better not leak! lol!

also a word to the wise....be VERY careful when you put the shaft through the oil seal...the spring likes to pop off (maybe the reason Kevin' was leaking 2 times from unknown vender)

Hank

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just be glad you don't have to paint the fuel pump!

i had my stearing pump poweder coated and after trying to get the paint just right on this one...i'm glad i did. lol!

but...again i'm a bit of a profectionist, but i'll be damned if this paint wasn't trying my patience. musta not got the parts clean enough i guess...but i've never had this trouble before...not with this paint either.

Kevin....the Packard gods for sure.....those jerks!

I've had that happen with paints before. Some paints want you to recoat in a certain window before fully cured, and some you have to wait many days until they are fully cured. Depends on the paint, hence why I always read the paint can before starting and plan accordingly.