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I am reading 80 ohms on the sender, wire disconnected,cold.

That sounds like a good start. At 180 degrees on your thermometer, if sender follows to the lower 25-35 value it should put the needle somewhere around mid to two thirds scale. If the gauge goes to hot then that would seem to point to the gauge or instrument regulator as the problem. If the gas gauge is reading OK, then that would eliminate the regulator and point to the temp gauge.

Also the temp sender wire could be shorted along it's path.

The wire is a very good point and with so many things done without solving things since the problem started, good to be brought up again. Hopefully checked long before now since it was one of the earlier suggestions.

Hot reading at 34 ohms, ran engine for 30 minutes with no boil over and temp not over 180+. I notice that my gas gauge is at 1/2 tank which is not correct because it leaks with about 5 gallons of gas in it and has not been used since it was taken out of storage. The CLipper has a small 1 gallon tank on the front to move it around and run it for testing. So could be the regulator.

I checked for the ECH Ir4 regulator listed in the archives but show no listing for it at NAPA. Is there a current number that someone has discovered?

That sounds promising. Regulator is kind of hard to check with a typical meter because it's not a constant voltage out. It's a nominal 5 volt output but is derived by the cycling or opening and closing of a contact. It does need to be grounded though so check it is securely mounted to back of cluster.

Cycle speed is dependent on load but gives 6.3v for a moment and then off for a moment and back on, then off. You can try your meter but no guarantees. If you have what appears to be a very constant 6.3v, then it's suspect. This is what the output looks like on a 12v system. 6v peaks would be half as high and probably a much different rate.

At least it appears the sender is in the correct range for our cars.

Don't have a cross for the IR4 but the IR1 might be a possibility since it is for same Fords senders are listed for -- although listings are all 12v cars. Since Packard used the same 458072 regulator at a different voltage from 54-6 on Packards, it may work. Terminals are different though. I looked at the price Napa shows. From what I saw, even with your discount it might be less expensive to go to one of our vendors if it proves to be needed.

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I will order a 6/12 regulator later this week. AS OF JULY 28,2012 MY CLIPPER IS DRIVEABLE!!!! I only took it out of the garage and ran it up and down the alley to turn it around in the garage. Everything worked well. As I adjust some items and feel more secure it will be touring our neighborhood next week. Gas tank and line is next for true driving!
Tried to add the picture to registry, but it didn't seem to work?

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Quote:WILLIS,

Congratulations! Added the picture above to your Registry entry.

Thanks, I feel like a kid getting my first car going and driving it around the block. It is rewarding to work your butt off for a year and then drive the car out of the garage.