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I remounted the old points and old condenser.

I set the points. I now have spark. I have the timing light hooked up to #1 and it's flashing.

But the engine doesn't start. I poured some fuel in the carb and still nothing, not even a cough.

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I decided to walk through the cranking using the start and stopping the second the timing light flashed.

Look at the position on the damper where I stopped after I saw the light, pun Intended I hope. I have a very hard time thinking about this, so I drew a picture. I tells me that the spark is timed for the previous cylinder, perhaps.

So I will put 4 into the 7o'clock slot where the #1 wire is now and move everyone one post counter clockwise.

Perhaps the mystery will unfold.

It's ok to tell me if I'm going in the wrong direction.

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Since you have spark now the two things I would do is reverify where #1 is on the cap. Set #1 on compression, put the rotor on and position the cap to verify what you think is the correct hole actually is. One tooth off makes a lot of difference.

The other thing is a weak battery from all the cranking could be dropping voltage when starter is loading it. If so and the voltage for the coil drops down below 4.5 volts or so, that would be a very marginal spark. Might work in the open but when trying to spark under compression, might not be able to jump the gap.

EDIT. I can't read your top drawing but here is Packards suggestion.

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I moved everyone over 1 space counterclockwise, so Number 1 is at 5 oclock.
The light flashed at this point, too late for TDC.

On to your suggestion, Howard. I'll use the battery charger and try to start.

When #1 is in the 7 oclock position as shown in the Packard diagram (same as mine tho unreadable, maybe click on it), the light flashes before TDC is reached. When the #1 wire is in the 5 o'clock position, the light flashes after TDC is reached.

I guess that it's better if it's early than late, so I will move No 1 back to 7 o'clock where, it appears from everyone, it ought to be.

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..so I will move No 1 back to 7 o'clock where, it appears from everyone, it ought to be.

Even though factory procedures are followed, sometimes there can be a one or two tooth difference. The rotor may not actually be in the 7 o'clock position. The only way to be absolutely sure where it landed is by checking.

I added the battery charger and it started, very rough at first. Better now. I'll check all my plugs and connections, then, Dare I, rotate the distributor.

What a relief. The car still works. My life is back.

Thanks again to all the usual suspects, Howard, Dave, West, Kev, JD and JW, Ross, and the car guys GTO, Su8overdrive.

You know, OD, putting the pointer in the wrong place was never my problem so they say.

Joe

Here's a real long shot to consider. I once had a friend who replaced the timing pointer under the wrong two bolts of the timing chain cover, thus incorrectly positioning it with respect to the damper marks.

Quote:

Not sure if your replacement points are the same, but here is how the original type were assembled.

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Thanks so much. I won't throw them away now.

I put that extra piece over the top, trying to match up the ends.
I didn't think to push it through the slit at the base of the contact arm. Of course there were no instructions with it, except to lubricate it.

After my wiring arrives, I'll put them in. As told my mightier minds, the way I had them over the top of the copper, they were grounding out the spark.

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Joe, it seems you have found your problem. The rest should be easy.

(o[]o)