Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Thanks Randy, I'm a slow learner but starting to get the picture. Contrary to what I was thinking, the pink and yellow wires operate independently of the light green wire, and basically independently of each other. Presumably the only reason the LG wire is run through the switch is to make sure it is disconnected before attempting to over-ride the system. When you say the pink/yellow are grounded when switched, how does this happen? Is the switch grounded through the dash perhaps? Looks like it's back to the drawing board to re-modify this $5 switch, If I can't then I think Kanter or Merrit will be the next port of call (that confounded switch must be built especially for this purpose). Cheers, John

G'day all, I should mention that the switch which I got in the Kanters kit (NOS?) does not appear to work as I would have imagined. I was imagining a switch similar to the Electric antenna switch which is a centre sprung switch that you either pushed or pulled to achieve lowering or raising, but which returned to an inactive state when released. The Kanters switch is a three position pull out switch, which stays in whichever position you select. I am not sure it is the correct switch. I shall endeavour to find out as I can forsee a few problems for operators. P.S. I just read Randy's post on having to modify the switch to return to the centre position, so it looks to be the way to go. Best regards Peter Toet.

Peter -

There is NO problem with the kit as supplied by Packard, but Randy's modification is an improvement that may be desired by some. The Clipper knob is factory-correct, in this particular use, for ALL Packard and Clipper models.

I have both a genuine NOS and an excellent repro of this kit, and will provide further insights - with pix - later this weekend.

The pink or yellow wires are grounded thru the switch and its mounting in the dash. Note the end contacts - one is for a pink or yellow wire. Its counterpart is grounded thru the switch itself and thus thru the mounting.

Perhaps a wire diagram is in order to clear up any confusion?

G'day all, thanks for your help, especially Randy for gently massaging my electrical knowledge and clarifying what's actually going on. With this knowledge embedded in my grey matter, the manual over-ride was attacked with renewed energy and it turned out to be quite a simple matter to get it operational after all, albeit without the automatic on/off switch disconnection.

I took a small momentary aerial switch and attached the pink and yellow wires to the up and down terminals, and ran a ground wire from the centre terminal to the dash. Works perfectly - all I have to do is REMEMBER to switch-off the on/off switch first. The manual switch is mounted on the bottom of the dash, about 2" along from the on/off switch, where it is accessible but not obtrusive.

Don't know whether to look for a factory type switch or not now. Interestingly, I did follow-up with Cole-Hersee about whether they still made these switches and they said no. However, about 20 years ago they contacted a lot of car clubs about interest in their old stock and got a nil response so junked the lot. Pity!

Previously, I eased my 155 pounds onto one end of the car to raise it, racing around to switch-off the on/off switch before the system returned to level. Now I notice the manual over-ride seems to be cranking further than it ever did with me on it, so I didn't take it to the limit (fear of the unknown!). Does anyone know how far the system travels before it reaches the limit switches?

Cheers, John

G'day John,

again, but have you joined the PACA site as a forum member yet? If not, here's a link -packardaustralia.com/
See you at the National Rally next March.

G'day Mal, have now! God willing, the Patrician, Bernice and I will definitely be at Mittagong next year.

Cheers, John

John, when you say the "up and down" terminals, what terminals exactly are you referring to? You should be connecting to the yellow and pink terminals in the control unit. That way you are not bypassing the limit switches.

It was about 25 years ago when I first stumbled across any Service Counselors, but the article on a Torsion-Level Manual Control that appeared in the July 1956 issue (SC Vol. 30, No. 7) really caught my attention.

Though I kept an eye out for this kit (P/N 6492178), I didn't have much luck. So, when I found an NOS switch (P/N 6492143), I shifted my focus to the harness (P/N 6492180). While the SC article (initially) advised that the kit "consists of a wiring harness and a three-way switch", there's a bit more to the kit than that. (See page 78 of the parts book, Groups 4.2202 through 4.2208 for details.) Coming up with a Clipper knob (P/N 439932) was no big deal, and I figured I could scrounge the other hardware. However, I really didn't want to attempt fabricating the harness without an original to inspect. The diagram of the harness as shown in the SC article is rather vague - not a true schematic. I even inquired on the availability of the harness from Kanter Auto Products, but was told they had none.

In 1995, I found out that Bob Berg had reproduced the manual control kit at the reasonable price of $54, and I purchased two. (See Image 6492178A, below.)

As Murphy would have it, a year later, as I was strolling the old White Field at Fall Hershey, I stopped by the tent of a vendor from OH. I'd just purchased a bunch of V8 parts from him the previous winter, but he said he had something new that I might be interested in. It was an NOS compensator control kit, still in its original carton! I gladly paid him the $40 he was asking. (See Image 6492178B, below.)

While there are subtle difference between the repro and the original kit, Bob's kit will do the job. Upon hearing that Kanter is now selling a manual control kit, I have to wonder whether they had anything repro'd or simply purchased them from Bob.

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