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Exactly right, JW. The hubs are different. I may be readu=ing the parts book incorrectly, but in the 12.000 section, it shows this:

Axle
340110 is for 1800
323143 is for 1801,1803, 1804,1806,1807
338693 is for 1808,1801A,1803A ambulance

Hub/Drum Assembles
347048 is for 1800
341982 is for 1801
351423 is for 1803 (my car, same as Jim Wagnon's), 1806
333931 is for 1804, 1807, 1808
333200 is for 1801A,1803A

So the axle-end taper is the same for 1801-3-4-6-7
But there are 3 different hubs/drum assemblies for that axle.

I wonder if the 1940 drum (that's all that was painted on the drum "Pack 1940") could have come from an 1801, 1804, or 1806? Since the flackmaster was saving it for Jim 1803, I assumed it was from a 160 or 1803. I'll check with him to see if he knows.

In the melon time:
My original hub inner ID is 1-5/8" and tapers down to 1-3/8" at the outer end.
The new hub inner ID is 1-1/2" and tapers down to 1-1/4" at the outer end.

The stock used for the hub is the same. The thickness in the outer wall is different by 1/8" between the two hubs. So it looks like, if it's possible to machine the hole on the new hub larger so it matches my original, that would be my next step, esp since the studs are already welded. At least I have the original hub for duplicating.

Exactly right, JW. The hubs are different. I may be readu=ing the parts book incorrectly, but in the 12.000 section, it shows this:

Axle
340110 is for 1800
323143 is for 1801,1803, 1804,1806,1807
338693 is for 1808,1801A,1803A ambulance

Hub/Drum Assembles
347048 is for 1800
341982 is for 1801
351423 is for 1803 (my car, same as Jim Wagnon's), 1806
333931 is for 1804, 1807, 1808
333200 is for 1801A,1803A

So the axle-end taper is the same for 1801-3-4-6-7
But there are 3 different hubs/drum assemblies for that axle.

I wonder if the 1940 drum (that's all that was painted on the drum "Pack 1940") could have come from an 1801, 1804, or 1806? Since the flackmaster was saving it for Jim 1803, I assumed it was from a 160 or 1803. I'll check with him to see if he knows.

In the melon time:
My original hub inner ID is 1-5/8" and tapers down to 1-3/8" at the outer end.
The new hub inner ID is 1-1/2" and tapers down to 1-1/4" at the outer end.

The stock used for the hub is the same. The thickness in the outer wall is different by 1/8" between the two hubs. So it looks like, if it's possible to machine the hole on the new hub larger so it matches my original, that would be my next step, esp since the studs are already welded. At least I have the original hub for duplicating.

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Joe, it might be easier, and less expensive, to locate a good brake drum assembly for a senior car. Even one with good threads so you don't need to change to studs.

(o{}o)

I'm not sure welding on brake drums is such a good practice. Though they look simple enough they are somewhat complex in that they are made of perhaps 3 or 4 different materials that no doubt have different expansion properties. I'd guess the hub starts life as a forging and the bell as cast steel, and some use a sheet steel face between the hub and the bell. And the friction surface in many is "centrifuse" (like molten sputtering) cast iron applied to the bell. My own preference would always to first try to find a used drum in good condition before trying to alter one. Just my opinion, I don't have any source info that welding drums is unsafe or ill-advised though I've been told that by some old-time mechanics.

OD, just to clarify the welding, we simply cut studs that screw into the hub, same thread as an original lug bolt, and welded them to the back side of the hub.

Then we used large lug nuts to hold the rim. The reason we did this on all wheels was because over decades of driving the Duchess, air-tool tightening kept making the holes in the wheels bigger and the lug bolts worn until 1 wheel when twisted against the curb on a hill pulled out part way. We solved this by going heavy-duty. The threads in all my hubs are just fine, we just could not find lug bolts with as big a head as the lug nuts we found.

We didn't weld the face of the drum back on to the bell rim of the drum. I agree, many issues in doing something like that.

JW, Max Merritt is looking for a used drum with the correct hub for me. One that's not too worn. In the meantime, I'll cut some new studs for it. I would have thought that reaming this small hub out would be straight forward, but I guess you need a special fixture to taper it correctly.

Joe, I have always preferred studs and nuts to fasten a wheel rather than bolts. Studs sure make it easier to mount a wheel and tire assembly, and Packards have heavy ones. The pilot stud that Packard used helps, but there is only one of them. I think your solution to screw in and then weld studs is a good one as you can reuse the brake drum assembly which would otherwise be disposed of.

(o{}o)

The plot thickens.
The 1803 rear drum/hub assembly sample at Max Merritt for 351423 matches the one sent by the flackmaster. 2" shoes are correct for the 1803.

According to the book, the 1803 and the 1806 share the same hub/drum assembly.

There's a logical syllogism here that would tell me what hub/drum assembly is on my car. (Where is Guscha?) My shoes are 2" supposedly correct for an 1803. The drum depth on my drum and the flackmaster's drum both measure 2-9/16".

The inside diameter is a full 1/8" bigger on my hub.

The only larger axle, and therefor larger hub hole, is the ambulance one, which takes larger shoes.

But it seems a 2-9/16 depth drum would accommodate shoes larger than 2". Is it possible I have an ambulance axle and ambulance hub/drum, but 1803 differential/ axle housing and brake backing plates and shoes?

I have a vague recollection that my axle was changed in the 1970s. I will check with that person, who for the moment will remain anonymous and see if he remembers anything about this.

It might be a good idea to record the specs on these hub and drum for the future.

Axle
340110 is for 1800
323143 is for 1801,1803, 1804,1806,1807
338693 is for 1808,1801A,1803A ambulance

Hub/Drum Assembles
347048 is for 1800
341982 is for 1801
351423 is for 1803 (my car, same as Jim Wagnon's), 1806
333931 is for 1804, 1807, 1808
333200 is for 1801A,1803A

For what it's worth parts books says your 351423 drum was used on seniors all the way to 55. The axle taper on my 47 2106 which is supposed to have the same drum as yours also measures 1 1/2 inside to 1 1/4 outside. If yours measures larger then the commercial axle or rear end swap sounds feasible.

I don't "think" so, as the HD axle was normally paired with 13" brakes, at least in 40. Past that...More information please as to donor axle...or more to the point, what model had 11.5" brakes with the HD axle? 21-21st series 03/06 CustomSupers or 22-23rd Customs? I do not have postwar data convenient...Paging Brian in Canada....
Might also verify the axle bearing...HD axle takes a larger bearing too...

At a really quick non exhaustive comparison, it appears for starters the 22-23rd hearse & ambulance chassis has a different # drum than the 1803-06 in question. Appears to have the same 2" width and 12" diameter shoe though. Perhaps some or all of the drum's part number difference is in the hub diameter.

I have no idea on any prewar car sizes. I'm thinking since so many of the same basic parts and axle setups was used from 40 until almost the end it's feasible that a relatively easy swap could have been made with one of the later rear ends. Maybe the same holds true for something prewar?? Any numbers visible on the rear end castings to see what might be there.