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Thanks, and of course, mine does have side mounts! Have removed the carburetor, fuel pump and the front lower corner of the splash apron still gets bound up against the radiator and the water pump discharge pipe. About ready to cut the front corner of the apron off. Will try you idea first, of trying to get it out over the shock absorber. Good grief!

Friends

That head on *b*y "interchanges with many makes, including "Stanly". I'd like to see the "Stanly" it fits....

Regards


John Harley

My 1940 has a split splash shield, separates right about in the middle (vertically). Someone once commented on that, and I think he said that later in the year they started doing that. It doesn't look "backyard," so I'm assuming it was done at the factory. Don't know for sure, though. Could have been done by a careful mechanic, I guess.

You Know Something West:

The last 18th series Super 8 I dealt with had the same set up. I never looked to see when it was built, but the cut was so good I thought whomever did it must have been really good. The car also had sidemounts. The parts book shows several numbers for the Super 8.

As for poor Bill's situation, The last one piece deal I handled did not have sidemounts and it came out the top after taking off a number of engine parts.

Here's another way that might work. I don't have my book handy, but I think that shock just unbolts from the frame. So unbolt the shock and swing it out of the way. There is that little metal flap on the front that may need to be carefully bent out of the way.

Make sure you move the jack stand under the suspension. I know on the 41 Clipper the shock does not just unbolt so check this first. My memory is getting a little soft, but I think the last 160 I pulled the shocks on used captive bolts. The alignment is not affected. I'll check this weekend when I get to my books given I don't have a sample car handy.

Not sure if these will help, but there are few bolts attaching the splashers, plus the little screws across the top. You have to loosen it at the rear bottom at the rear of the fender, and at the front, where it's slipped in there with the rear end of it up high.

But if you want to do any extensive work on the engine, you're better off removing the front clip.

Check Jim's work here:
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... lat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=70

Joe

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If you remove the shocks, be aware that all four bolts are different. Make a note which bolt came out of which hole. ALSO, there may be shims underneath, so keep notes as to where those shims were placed, and how many were layered in each position.

Look at post #52 on my blog:
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... act&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=50

Here is an old photo that shows where and how my inner panel works. There's actually a tab (lower arrow) that holes the two together, to keep it from vibrating.
Also note that my car is the highest known serial number of this body, so this split panel may coincide with a mid-year change.

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Thanks, finally had success had to disconnect the water tube from the water pump which gave me enough room the lift the panel out the top. Yes, mine is one of the very early models thus the one piece. I'm going to have the panel cut in half at the local sheet metal shop and have a vertical tab spot welded to over lap the other half. West, since I want to make this look original, it appears from your photo that the split is along the first of the two center vertical groves? Do they over lap the entire way and are they screwed together? What additional screws and bolts if any were added in the split panel setup? Looked at your links and saw the picture of you sitting on the 180 club sedan, that's the Packard we are talking about here . What color was you dad's mine is Wilshire green?

Finally got valve cover off for #5-8 cylinders. Used remote trigger and all 8 valves look straight and springs and keepers are in place and there was no clattering. Some of the lifters rotated a bit others did not. All parts and wall surfaces were very clean and appeared to be well oiled. So I guess now the head has to come back off and see what's happening?

Were you unsuccessful using a couple of blasts of compressed air in the spark plug hole while the valves were opening to see if perhaps you might dislodge some small piece of debris that might have settle on the valve face or seat? This was suggested earlier but never head you comment back again.

Has this engine had a recent valve job? I'm thinking of the takeup reserve for the hydraulic tappets. If your #6 had good compression before the head gasket change, this is highly unlikely but thought I'd ask.