Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

PackardV8, I think you missed post #7:
Quote:

You didn't say whether you have an Autolite of Delco distributor. My '55 Clipper is equipped with Autolite equipment.

I had a problem with my Clipper after installing new points, condenser, rotor, and cap. It would be hard to start, or easy; it would idle roughly, or smoothly; it would miss between 2,000 and 3,000 RPMs or run smoothly. Finally, on the way to Salado last year it failed to proceed. I suspected it was a coil and installed a new one in the AutoZone parking lot. It did not help.

Got the Clipper home on a flat bed tow truck. After a bit of trouble shooting I found that I had tightened the primary lead post nut in the distributor too hard and had cracked the insulator. The post would move around and short out as the breaker plate moved. It was a frustrating experience to say the least. Maybe this is your problem.

(o{}o)

Also discovered a secondary problem: the vacuum advance chamber leaked. Replaced this and fixed the broken insulator. The car now starts and runs smoothly, like a Packard should.

I'm not convinced that the current problem is "point bounce" and modern "preassembled" point sets have for the most part eliminated some of the traditional tests and adjustments when installing points, but it still makes sense to do so if you want reliable performance. Ignition point sets used to have a slot rather than a simple hole on the spring; the purpose of this was to adjust the point spring tension and eliminate point bounce. I doubt anyone today bothers to check this and make any needed adjustment typically folks just stick the points in place, set the gap and tighten the screw. Packard specs for point spring tgension were typically in the range of 17-21 oz. and there is a special tool for making the measurement that you can sometimes find at the larger auto flea markets. A second check which has also pretty much fallen by the wayside today was to check and adjust if necessary (by bending the fixed point) the contact of the point faces. One is slightly convex and the other flat - adjustment is made so that the center of the convex point hits the center of the fixed point. Little by little these fine points of point installation just become ignored and forgotten by most but they were there for a reason. Try reading an older Glenn's or Motors for the fine points of this.

How did the car run BEFORE the points were replaced????
What brand of points are the NEW points???

The car had a miss to it before and idled rough, replaced cap, rotor, plugs and wires. No change
So we changed the points and it ran great but still had miss and idled rough. In fooling around with it we did somethind and it would not start anymore and had no dwell. So we took out the distubutor out, went over it to make sure everything was okay and put it back in. Replaced lead wire. Did not want to start, ended up being that we tightened the lead lug and it rotated and was touching the centrifugal plate. Fixed that. Started up still had miss and idled rough. Cylinder #2 had 20 psi, push rod was bent, lifer snapped. Fixed that. Had correct pressure. Fired up, still miss when revving but idled great. I never said it was a points bouncing, I just don't know what else it could be.

The car did not run for 8 years before I got it. So I don't know how it is supposed to run. It has never run right since I have had it presumebly because of the lifer issue.

The points are Echelin.

Curious if the advance is working like it is supposed to?

Guys, when I removed the distributor the motor was turned without the distributor was in there. I know this throws off the timing off. I replaced the distributor, cranked the motor until it was on number one, found where the rotor was pointing and re-ran the wires according to the firing order. #1 is not in the same position anymore and the cap is turned but when I pull it up on #1 the rotor lines up with the cap.

The car ran like it was on 7 cylinders before but it never backfired. After fooling with the distributor it was backfiring over 2k.

Obviously, this is my issue, I runs like it is tooth off. And this issue was not there before I took the distributor out. I am not sure how I would fix it. From what I knew before, if it is on # 1 tdc and the rotor and cap line up, it should run.

I am sorry if this seems like a wild goose chase, I am not a master mechanic but I am good enough to get myself into a pickle. I am grateful for your guys's help.

Thanks

Have you checked the governor (counter) weight springs?
I once had one spring that had jumped out of the fastener.
My 2 cents.

Tom

Maybe a jumped timing chain? I hope not.

(o{}o)