Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Thanks, I have been restoring cars professionally and shipping world wide for over 40 years.

Floor and trunk pans arrived today from C2C. BDeB was correct, it looks like either their stamping machice lacked strength or their dies weren't deep enough. I am debating using them as is, restamping depressions individually, or welding small round and square deeper depressions to replace C2C's. Probably the "path of least resistance. It will be next week.

I am sandblasting the exterior rust and priming with metal etching primer, which will take me to Sunday to finish.

Then I will lay in the floorpanels and mark what they will cover. Once removed again I usually mark one inch in from the floor markings and cut off the excess with a cut off tool. Then comes the messy part, the sandblasting to expose decent metal. Once the sandblasting of remnant floor and crossbraces is finished, I again mark and cut back any weak or thin areas. Sandblast again and start to reconstruct. First patch pieces to bring the perimeter lips even one inch under the floor pans. Then I drill the perimeters of the floorpans with 3/8" holes every 3" and flange the one inch overlap so everything ends up flush with no ridge or seam. The holes will allow me to spotweld. I will again assemble the floorpans and recheck fit and support. If everything is good I will then spray the sandblasted crossbraces and structures that will not be welded with bed liner from the top ( hard to reach when the floor is welded in) and let it set. I will wash the floorpans with either Muriatic Acid in a dilute solution or with vinegar. Then wipe them down with acetone. Place wet rags on the crossbraces but not so thick as they cannot be removed when finished welding. It is now ready to weld. I use a spot setting on my MIG and adjust until there is no burn through but good adhesion and penetration. I cross tack to prevent flexing and warping, going from left to right and top to bottom in rotation. Checking to make sure everything is still right I finish welding and wire brush. I always finish my floors, inner fenders, trunks, etc. with bedliner (bulletproof) and my frame and suspension in Semi Gloss Black Rust inhibiting paint

Hello Rustjunky,
Ref you question #1: How do you remove the pictures from the your registry?

The only person that can remove any information from the Packard registry is BigKev the webmaster. It's a security issue to insure the integrity of all the information contained therein. Drop him a PM and he'll take care of it for you. Hope this helps.

G'day Steve,

Regarding your advice that "The only person that can remove any information from the Packard registry is BigKev the webmaster". That is not strictly true because in my capacity as a Forum Ambassador and "Registry Czar" I have been delegated limited access to the Registry to help spread the load a little for BigKev. I exercise this ability to delete/change unwanted or blurry pictures as well as duplicate entries. In this capacity I deleted the duplicate entry concerned. But John actually ended up replacing his own pic, as anyone can, by accessing the Make Changes button found at the bottom of each Registry entry. The picture John used to replace the hubcap one is great, have a look at his Registry entry.

ooooooooops,

Thank you for the heads up.

Regards, Steve

Since you're doing such a complete job, Rusty, you might check these guys for sound-deadener.
quietride.com/catalogpdfs/packard_catalog.pdf

Checked it out and all they offer for my 50 series 23 two door is the firewall insulator. Fortunately mine is fine. In the roof I use a 1/2" Synthethic fiber carpet pad I bond to the roof using Landau top cement in an HVLP sprayer. Landau or vinyl top cement will not debond under intense heat (ie. 12 hours of sunlight on a dark roof). I use the same under the carpets and on the doors and rear panels I use a foil backed cellular sound deadner/insulator I cut to fit. Quiet with out retaining water. Thanks for another source.