Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Man, that is nice

Larry51 wrote:

Quote:
Don't understand why you'd approach that post nervously.

I'm no engineer and am only a mechanic by avocation, but I wrote that post because the original fluids have been unavailable for decades. While the improved version of Type A (that is, AQ/ATF) was also used by GM and succeeded by Dexron, the friction modifier that worked so well in those blends was discontinued back in the 1970s.

Since then, more than a few owners have experienced some noise/shifting issue with later versions of Dexron, but found relief from a drain and refill with Type F. In more recent years, others took things a step further with B&M Trickshift.

If you've got an Ultramatic with OE type linings (and everything is properly adjusted), you can try Dexron first. Not happy? Drain and refill with Type F. Still not happy? Then, try Trickshift. Otherwise, it may be time for a rebuild. It's that simple.

Quote:
The only mention of newer materials in that post was made WRT to GM materials (as offered by Kanter Auto), and I had posited, in the public forums, that Dexron might be more appropriate in that case. After another member provided an answer from Kanter Auto, I provided a link, in my FAQ, to that very text, but the post (as well as several others in other, unrelated threads - perhaps even entire threads) seems to have disappeared.

WRT updates to those FAQ posts, topics in the FAQ forum are, by intent, single posts threads. I used to edit my own posts, there, as new information became available, but I can no longer do so since the webmaster decided to apply a seven-day timeout on editing. Yet, after some further discussion in the public forums, I did edit the copy for this fluid FAQ, offline, for clarity and forwarded it to the webmaster, who replaced the original text. I've also done that in a couple of other cases, but it's too cumbersome and more than once, things have fallen through the cracks. Clearly, BigKev is a busy guy, but so am I.

Although I have personally tabled further composition of any new FAQs, here, I'm not aware of any new developments as regards fluid or linings for the Ultramatic.

Henry,

Did I miss something, what is this oil filter, stacked type?

yes like this. FRAM C4P filter. it is a stacked filter. see the stacked black elements through the hole?

also as you can see the thing is saturated with oil...I'd say my oil pressure is outstanding....that was from just that one little run of the motor. and yes the RD is missing form the PACKARD on the decal...no idea how that fell off....but I like the patina of it. don't know why I like it.....just do.

here if you want one like it.....10 bucks...autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=511208

here is the normal paper element filter, the last picture is the paper one. there is a big difference..... http://www.amazon.com/FRAM-C4-Oil-Cartridge-Filter/dp/B000BXMF0O/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

other numbers:

Fram C4P, Wix 51100, Napa 1100 Oil Filter

for the trans, I believe I'm going to go with my trusty old Mobil 1 full synthetic I used in my shift kitted f150 trans rebuild. with the new GM material all around I believe I can run modern stuff just fine.

Hank

Attach file:

---

  (43.17 KB)


  (44.18 KB)


  (80.24 KB)

Well got a coolant leak from the head gasket. Retorqued the head bolts and didnt help. Hoping the copper gasket seals up from my heat cycles, but I'm not hopeful.

Trans filled with 7 qts. Then ran motor and marked on the low setting, so it soaked it up. Then added 3 more qts. Need to check level again. No weird noises from the trans using Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF. Well see one day when I can actually drive it. Had to fix a leak from the pan. Tightened that one bolt and bam fixed it.

Fixed fuel leak at the fuel filter inlet and outlet. Tightened and bam fixed.

Coolant leak when filling radiator... Had to RTV the thermostat gasket again. Fixed it.


Coolant leak:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rrDkdCpZiAU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>]



Sustained run:

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vYs6iaYRq2Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Where Hank? Where?

The first video. It is dripping onto the header and off the block as well. It's coming from the head gasket area. Sux.

Coolant leaks at headgaskets upon NEWLY rebuilt engines of ANY make is not rare. Probably about 5%. I can not view the u-tube video. But if the leak is no faster than about 1 drop per minute then it will most likely seal up itself after a few heat/cool cycles and retorquing of the head.

Let me guess, it is leaking at A CORNER of the head.

And to top that off i'll guess that u had the heads milled and the block decked too.

Might have to go an extra 5 to 10 pounds of torque near the leak but don't exceed 10 ft/#'s over spec.

Hank, hate to be the doomsayer (again), and others here can correct me if I am wrong (and I hope I am). The head gaskets are metal shim with embossing for sealing. Once the heads have been torqued and the embossing collapsed, there is no re-torquing to fix a non-sealing gasket. These head gaskets are of a different construction than the composite ones used on the straight eights. Some advocate using a copper spray on the gaskets when installing. Maybe re-torquing will fix your problem, I hope so.

(o{}o)

The head gaskets are metal shim with embossing for sealing. Once the heads have been torqued and the embossing collapsed, there is no re-torquing to fix a non-sealing gasket. These head gaskets are of a different construction than the composite ones used on the straight eights. Some advocate using a copper spray on the gaskets when installing.

That's my understanding as well, JW. And I would certainly use a gasket sealant on the steel shim-type gaskets.