Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Larry51 & All,

How are your gaskets on the wing windows? I seem to recall a discussion about the rust one finds on the floorboards in the front due to leakage around the wing window gaskets. Believe me, I have that issue. My home remedy for the leaks was to use clear sealant, which is only marginally successful (and you can't seal everything without sealing the window shut!). I have thought of replacing the gaskets, but am leery of repros, due to some issues that Big Kev mentioned elsewhere.

There is a product for softening seals, called "ATP Re-Seal". It was made for a transmission additive, but my mechanic (who works on many old cars, including my '54, and one of his own) told me the stuff was used with great success on old, hardened window gaskets.

Anybody used ATP Re-Seal or a similar seal softener on window gaskets? (I don't think it would ever be useful on windshields, but those wing windows are a PITA.)

Sorry if this takes us a little off topic, but, as mentioned above, sometimes "resurrecting" an old topic seems to make more sense than starting a new thread when you've got similar issues.

Thanks to all for this info, I'll see if it is readily available here and report back.

Guy, as far as the wing windows go, I am going to do a test with the hose when I eventually get the car out of the garage and can squirt water onto it (- before the carpets and door trims are fitted!).

My wing windows have new rubbers BUT I can see quite large gaps between door and rubber so I know those will need some sealant. Am considering just neutral cure silicone. Darn shame to need to do that but carefully applied it shouldn't be very noticeable.

Well . . . the 81730 Silicone is available here in Oz but only at one or two places, and has to be shipped to me. It is a massive $39 for a 1.5oz. tube! Typical ripoff considering you can get it for as little as $6-$7 in the US. Amazon.com and eBay have it for $6 but $40 postage to Australia.(Sighs loudly).

We down here on the backside of the earth have a wonderful country but unfortunately this BIG cost differential happens all the time.

So I bought a tube of Permatex RTV Silicone for a mere $10 which states "Sealant and Adhesive". Have my doubts about it adhering to rubber, so I have placed some on the rubber seal and will check in 24hours whether it adheres well enough to hold the 'springy' stainless trim to the rubber seal. Got my doubts already. It just looks like any other RTV silicone - not very adherent at all . . . . .

Next I will try Sikaflex 227, and after that there is a locally made Polyurethane adhesive which is apparently 'super strong adhesive' (- stronger than a Mother-in-Law's rebuke, as they say). That is $39 for a large tube but might yet be the best option.

An update on the adhesive that works . . . .

The test of the RTV Silicone was a complete failure as it just doesn't have enough bond strength to hold the springy stainless trim in place.

I bought some Selleys Multi Grip (cheap at around $6) which is a contact adhesive that can be used wet and dries colourless / clear. Did a test joint and left it 24hours, and it worked very well. Good strong bond formed and this was not too difficult to carefully pull apart. (Other 'permanent" adhesives like Urethanes etc would probably be very hard to separate for when the trim needed to be used again).

Now I have used it successfully on the car.

Applied the Multi Grip thick to both surfaces, then immediately pressed the trim into the slotted seal and used loads of wide masking tape to hold it in contact with the rubber seal. Allowed to harden for 24 hours. Worked well.

I just used black 3M weatherstrip adhesive in the areas where the fasteners passed through the rubber seal. I did not use anything between the glass and rubber, or rubber to metal. If you are using a fresh seal, you really shouldn't need any and it will be a very tight fit to start with.

Also on the slotted area of the rubber where the trim sits, you shouldn't need anything there as that slot does not penetrate to the other side, and the corner moldings are what hold everything in place. You just need sealant where the molding fasteners pass through the seal and body.

Also, the more sealant you use, the more of a nightmare it will be in the event the glass has to be replaced.

BigKev, my stainless trims weren't happy to stay securely in the slots in the new windscreen seal, they just wanted to pop out so needed some type of glue to keep them in place especially along the long top run. Sides were ok, they tended to stay in place in their slots. The corners are ok too, as you said - they are held in place by the corner bits. The contact was only to hold the stainless in place and not to stop water getting in. I can peel the stainless off the rubber if I need to, it is not permanent.

Maybe some stainless trims are a really good fit but I went through mine (- have three sets) and picked the best but none of them were a happy fit. It makes me wonder about what the Manual says - ' . . . attach the trims to the seal before inserting the glass into the body . . . '.I wonder how many people have tried doing it that way? And - did it work?

all else fails: service manual calls to use "body sealer" for the windshield trim install/waterproof. I'd talk to a glass shop for recommends. Commercial product is probably better than OTS consumer items. In my opinion, a trim sealer, not glass or rubber gasket sealant, is needed here to adhere the stainless and fill the gap between the steel.
Early sealers that I'm aware of were either linseed/clay (dumdum) based, filled/solvented rubber, or tar based(not recommended here).
3M weatherstrip adhesive is not UV stable nor filled. Has high solvency so won't fill gaps and needs to "dry" before contact. Won't/slow cure under the trim piece if liquid.
There are adhesive grades of "silicone" - unaffected by heat/UV. The urethane adhesives/sealents are used to direct adhere glass today. I'm guessing, in the correct grade/adhesion & fill, that'll be the best choice here.
Acrylic or acrylic silicone sealers will last, stick to glass, and can be painted. Paint won't stick to the regular (messy) silicone so be careful if painting is planned. Regular silicone releases acetic acid on curing so has corrosion potential in sealed areas if moisture gets in. (I used to make the catalyst for that) I wouldn't recommend for this. Although, I did use some clear sealant on the CAD vent windows recently - for short term sealing until I restore later.
ps: FYI. I've been thinking in customization of raising the (rear) glass to a flush mount(modern method) and eliminating the Packard trim/gasket method of attachment. Would be even easier on the front flat glass. (move the channel/body work) The back window is slightly curved and detented from the body & holds water. I'm not sure yet if I can get "wider" curved glass made or need plastic.

I had to use sticky contact cement meant for the purpose. had to put it on both sides and let it dry. i tried all the other options that were stated and this one finally worked. i was able to take it off when needed. kinda rolls off like rubber cement. was reddish in colour but i did not use much and it was under the stainless on the top. the top was the worse. around the curve.