Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I got my clock working a couple of years ago-last week notice it was not working again. Took it apart relubed it/cleaned the contacts-noticed the fuse had blown.

1. What fuse is required on this-we think aga 2-measureing the resistance of the coil get .7 ohms which would mean approx. 8amps when the switch closed-I would assume it probably would mean a slow blow fuse.

2. This car has a glove box light-measuring voltage from the neg terminal to the lead I Assumed to be ground I get ~3 volts. Evidently there is some kind of switch in this lamp-is it a mercury switch similar to the trunk switch? I get 6 volts measuring neg to ground. I assume when the box is closed the clock gets votage thru a ground-open it gets thru this switch?

thks for your attention

David

Parts book says 2 amp fuse on the 47 clock but not sure it was a slow blow. Interestingly, all the 6v clocks from 22nd on were 3 amp. Believe it is a smaller version of the tilt style switch used in trunk light. Not sure if it is mercury or a ball though. Something does rattle if you pull the socket out of the holder and shake it so chances are it is oxidized to have the low voltage reading..

Howard-can those switches be repaired? The light/switch looks sealed

thks as always

David

My clock does have a 2A fuse, looking like this one:


I had three wires running to the clock/ glove compartment:
black (-) and white (+, ground) for the clock light and
red (-, with 2A fuse) for the clock.

I reinstalled these cables according to the wiring diagram and the clock is working (again).

Glove compartment light is missing ...

Regards,
Clemens

Took the occasion and had another look at my glove compartment.

Well, the light was not missing. What I mistook for some sort of capacitor for the clock is:
the light!

When I took it out I noticed the missing light bulb ...

I couldn't dismantle the bulb holder, but soaking with some contact spray and thorough cleaning afterwards with white spirit and airgun freed up the mechanism enough to working order. Dismantling the bulb holder might destroy it due to the necessary force you'd have to apply.


What I noticed was the missing insulation at the cable terminal.


This could lead to a shorting right here:


I hope this is of some help.
Lightened regards,
Clemens

thks for the reposes-I think I have the clock working again-cleaned the contacts on the clock/both fuse contacts/new medium 2a fuse.lub the clock/exercised it many times-seems to be working-"time will tell" Have not gotten the glove box light switch to work.

I was also wanting to get the clock in my car working (1954 Cavalier).

I tried to get to the fuse but no way can I reach it without removing the insturment panel. ugggg.

I figured I would have to remove the clock and go through it. the clock should re-wind about every five minutes. The re-wind contacts inside the clock are closed for just a fraction of a second. If the battery is low or the clock needs repair the contacts will stay closed blowing the fuse.

For the glove box light, as I recall the switch and socket are one peice. Usually you can take these things apart about one time if you are carefull.

Don't be tempted to use WD-40 to clean a switch.

Jim

Hi Jim,
When I bought my '54 Convertible in 2005 it had a non-functioning clock. The prior owner had the car rewired and converted to 12 volt negative ground. I opted to have the clock converted to a quartz movement which at that time cost $111.00. There is no change in the clock's appearance and it keeps perfect time. I put an under-dash switch in the line to the clock so it is not running all the time. Worth considering to avoid the low battery/stuck contact/blown fuse problem.