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Hello, I am attempting to connect the oil pressure line on my 37 Packard 6. The block has a plug where the line connects and I have not been able to remove it even after soaking in PB Blaster. The slot in the plug is soft, I'm assuming that it is brass. Has anyone reading this ever encountered this problem ?? I'm not sure what else to do, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have attached a photo for reference

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If I didn't have a screw driver that fit the full width and depth of the slot, I'd grind a square-shanked one to fit, insert it and give the end a couple of raps with a light hammer. Then while putting as much pressure as you can on the end of the screw driver to maintain full contact in the slot, turn the shank of the screw driver with a wrench.

You might also consider using a Dremel to square up and deepen the slot. I doubt PB Blaster will accomplish much, little if any serious corrosion is going to occur between the cast iron and brass.

exactly what happened on my 39 120, only on the water temp probe. I ended up drilling it out, by starting out with small drill bits, then slightly larger and finally used an Easyout to remove the brass parts. I did chase the hole with a tap and then installed a new sender. Just take it very slow and easy. It isn't hard to drill too deep.

I'd really hate to have to drill it out, the concern would be getting metal chips inside the oil galley where they could do considerable harm. Drills of course are designed to clear the chips outward but at the point of breakthrough there is a chance some will go internally. And since the chips will be nonmagnetic, the common way of removing them will not be available to you. I suppose there is a good chance that starting the engine after drilling will result in a gush of oil coming out which may flush the chips out, but I'd still think of drilling as a last resort.

There is a tool called an impact screw driver. It's a hand held unit that you smack the end of it with a hammer. I've used it many times for just your sort of problem.

Thank s to all of you for your suggestions, I'll let you know when I have it removed. I do like the idea of using a Dremel tool to deepen the slot and grinding a piece of steel to fit the slot. The real problem is the slot is way too shallow and doesn't allow the screwdriver to get a good grip.

Suggest you try to connect to another main bearing gallery plug. The one that is normally used, and pictured, is for the rear main bearing. Any one of the plugged outlets can be used, try the next one forward. Problem doing this might be the length of the gauge tubing.

(o{}o)

Thank you J.W.

A little heat on the block could aid in loosening it also.

Not to hijack but a question... My newly rebuilt engine is on a stand. I was trying to figure out how to "prelube" pre-oil the engine before startup. I figured that I would tap into one of these ports and run some sort of pressure oiler. What can I use to pressure oil it. ...and can I tab into these ports.

Thanks,

Mark

My newly rebuilt engine is on a stand. I was trying to figure out how to "prelube" pre-oil the engine before startup. I figured that I would tap into one of these ports and run some sort of pressure oiler. What can I use to pressure oil it. ...and can I tab into these ports.

I did exactly that using a Harbor Freight cheapo hand transfer pump. Bought a brass barbed hose adapter and threaded it into the gallery and connected the HF item. I used the black air hose in the photo for the output side as it is designed for pressure and a bit smaller so easier to find an adapter. The pump puts out a fair amount each stroke and pressure depends on how hard you work but it does seem to be enough to get into the needed places. I put a gallon of oil into the engine via the hand pump and then filled the crankcase/filter with another gallon. Also removed the plugs and put a bit of oil directly into the cylinders to wet the rings. Cranked the engine over a bit until there was a bit of pressure from the regular pump before trying to start it.

The engine had been sitting almost 16 years after a rebuild so oil must have done some good because it started right up, nothing protested and engine seems to be running OK.

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