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Howdy Gents. Decided I'd finally remove my OD lockout cable to see if I can repair it. However, I can't get the yoke end loose from the OD. The parts manual shows a simple clevis pin going through the yoke (3.299), with a cotter pin holding the clevis pin. I've gotten the cotter pin out and loosened up the clevis pin enough to spin around, but it won't pull out. Upon closer inspection it appears there might be a sleeve of some type inside inside the yoke, around the clevis pin - is this the case? Any ideas on how to loosen that up and remove the pin, or will I have to cut it out? Thanks!

On another note, I haven't posted lately but have been enjoying my car. Saturday night cruise in picture attached. It was snapped within a few minutes of arriving, and this was pretty much the standard sight for most of the time we were there. Amongst several dozen immaculately restored, detailed and resto-modded cars (including the Chevy with a 3x2 setup next to my car), my "old used car" sure does get a lot of looks. I love how many smiles and stories it evokes. "My neighbor/uncle/granddaddy/dad had one of these when I was a kid! I remember riding/falling asleep/having a blast in a car just like this!"

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I've removed a few over the years, never did more than remove the clevis pin and the yoke fell free - never saw a sleeve. Perhaps your yoke has been squeezed or bent?

Thanks O_D, for the response. Now I'm thinking maybe my yoke was replaced at some point. It's not tight on the OD arm at all, and there were what appeared to be plastic washers on each side of the arm, in the yoke...of course those crumbled away as I was trying to work everything loose.

For continuity - in case someone else comes across this issue.

With a little persuasion with a torch, I was able to get the clevis pin out. It does, in fact, have a sleeve/bushing around the pin, between the yoke arms. See pic below.

Second picture shows other end of cable. Is this repairable? I "think" I remember reading that these aren't repairable if the ears of the housing, which surround the outer cable, are broken. Since mine are intact, can I just use a small clamp (hose clamp?) around the ears to hold the outer cable? Should I epoxy the outer cable in place? Advice is welcome!

Finally, is it possible to get overdrive to engage with the cable removed? I left the arm on the side of the o/d in the rear position, which I'm pretty sure is the NON-lockout position, correct? I went for a short test drive but couldn't tell if o/d was engaging. Do I need to temporarily connect the two wires that attach to the lockout cable, to complete the circuit?

As always, help is greatly appreciated!

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A hose clamp will work but I wanted mine to have a little more finished look. Because the split was fairly long, also wanted to fill in the extra length of break and the space between main body to look more like a one piece affair. I bought the cheapest two piece shaft collars McMaster had. Think they were something like $2.50 each. Others have used different arrangements so almost anything that will squeeze the break will work. I didn't use any adhesive -- just clamp.

One important thing is to lubricate the cable well. Mine was so rusted internally it would barely move and is what caused the problem. I used penetrating oil to break it free then hung it up vertically and dribbled oil down the wire so it would run inside the cable housing before clamping things back together.

In this photo, the rear collar directly over the split is probably all that is really needed and is stock size. The front one was partially drilled out to fit over the different circumference near the body so it could get a bit closer. I bought collars just under the crimp size so they could squeeze down a bit. IIRC mine were 5/16 but yours may need different.

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Yes you will have to connect the wires together in order to complete the circuit to the relay. As for really needing the lockout cable - no you don't. I ran my R11 for a year without a cable the only drawback is that you will always be in "free wheeling" mode

Thanks for the response, Howard! That shaft collar is brilliant!

I've hung the cable up and sprayed it with penetrant. How do I know when it's "free enough"? How much resistance should be felt with moving the cable? I've cleaned the rust off the shaft portion at the transmission end, and worked it enough that penetrating oil (silicone liquid wrench) is all the way through the cable. It's much freer than before but there is still some resistance.

Also, any insight on O/D operation with the cable removed? Thanks!

-Mark

Thank you, Phil, for the insight on O/D operation without the cable! Your response posted while I was drafting my response to Howard.

My cable has resistance and there is a push or pull to get it started. Once it starts moving it is smooth and fairly free. I would say as long as you can move the knob without really straining or turning purple it is probably free enough. On the lever you want to leave in position, If like my R9 it will be somewhat at an angle when at full engagement. There is a some play before it gets anywhere close to disengagement but I would still tie it when locked so gravity can't move it.

Just want to be sure - on my 48. The electrical parts for the OD are disconnected, and the OD cable is pushed IN. Is this the position it should be in with the OD inoperable ? Or, can any damage occur while driving the car in this position ?