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The blackwall idea has its merits. Especially as it gives me a chance to try out radials and compare them with the bias tires on there now. This car looks particularly good with its 3 1/4" wide whites. I don't know if it's as "period correct" as it could be, but it really sets it off. Some people opted for the snazzy look even on the less highbrow cars, and liked it back then, too.

As far as wheel covers, I like the dog dish hubcaps a lot. Simple and understated. They'd look even better if the wheels were painted better. Looks like they were an afterthought, and show both original and new paint. One reason the white walls are set off so nicely is the white part of the wide white ends right next to the wheel.

Blackwalls will make this baby look quite like a police car, as I said earlier. I don't mind that a bit. If I find a set of radials with raised white letters, I'll really have fun. An instant hot rod that I can change back to the conservative period look easily.

The consensus on radial size is that the 235 75 is the closest to the L78. This size is probably more appropriate to the wider senior wheels, but I think it looks good, and like I said, I can live with the speedometer misread. The math isn't too hard. 5 MPH slow at 30 means about 10 MPH off at 60 and about 15 MPH off at 90, which is about as fast as I'll ever want to go. None of the speed limits are over 75-- yet-- and I try to avoid freeways.

I'll probably get a set of radials before a trip I am planning to take in July. About 120 miles each way.

Blackwalls, small wheel covers, and trim rings could be most attractive.

I have a set of NOS small Clipper wheel covers. I was going to do this on my 55 Clipper, but never got around to it.

(o{}o)

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This is something I'd like to see. Never have to worry about matching ww widths when you have to replace one tire. I've never seen it done, though. It might look striking if done right.



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I don't know what came with my car, but IMO wide white walls looked very good on the Reinhart bodied cars.One of the main reasons that this look works for me on these cars is the front wheel well radiuses set off the tires so well... and vice versa.

I want my Clipper to remain "upwardly mobile".

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Well, I'm actually going shopping at the stores now, instead of just looking on-line.

My plan is to try Wal-Mart, Fleet Farm, and Menard's (last two are local hardware and supply chains that carry decent tires).

This way I can try it out on radials. I don't think I'll like 'em as much as bias ply that are on there now, but it's time to do something! Guess I'll have to buy 5 so I have a radial spare.

I just can't see putting $800-$1000 worth of tires on this car at this time. I'd rather save about half of that and put it into other things it needs.

For mounting, I plan to take them to my mechanic. I think this is much safer than relying on a service department that might not know anything about removing bias ply tires (those beads and sidewalls can be really stiff) and to notice that some cars have righty-loosey lefty-tighty threads on the left-side mounting BOLTS. I also plan to have my mechanic replace the stems, because he'll match them instead of just pulling something off the shelf.

An few questions:

? Any suggestions on other national chains that might carry something in the $100 range? P 235 75R is what I seek to replace L78.

? How much of a discount should I ask for (and probably not get) for buying the tires un-mounted?

? Anything special to look for in stems?

Comments always welcome, because someone on this site will probably point out why I'm nuts to do this, and that's fine by me!

While how your tire is made is more important than where you buy it, I do question shopping the cheapest general merchandise retailers like you plan. Check with Discount Tire, Tire Rack, etc. Make sure you ask that the wheels be weighted on the back side - no weights will show on the front. If you're getting 5, consider making the one that needed the most weight the spare. Request a torque level (what was recommended?) on installation so you can get them off again.

bkazmer,

Thanks for the tips.

The Shop Manual recommends 85-95 ft. lbs. torque for the wheel bolts.

I think I'll ask that they be manually torqued to 85 ft. lbs.

The tire question is unresolved, but still on the table. I'm going to keep doing research over winter, while the car is in storage.

Here's what's come to light going through my notes on the subject of size:

I checked my spare, and it is a real oldie. Bald snow tire, basically. Don't remember the brand, here is the SIZE:

7.60 x 15

What matches that, I wonder. I don't think it is "oversized" like the L 78 15 and P 235 75R sizes I was looking at. Maybe it's the true Clipper (junior) sized tire!?

7.6 x 15 is the original size for the clippers. P225 75 R 15 is about as close as you can get with a modern size. I ran 215 75 15 for years. They were just a little short.

48 posts and you're still uncertain about size? Yes, the correct original size was 7.60 x 15 x 4 ply. See chart.

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"48 posts and you're still uncertain about size?"
Ditto.
It's just tires, not a mail order bride!
Throw a used tire in the trunk- under $40 w/ M&B.
(If you even balance it)
Find a couple good used radials on CL or at a swap meet for under $50 each & when you are ready, step up to some nice ones, they will last a decade or more.