Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

EDIT: Thanks to Service Bulletins on this site, I got it. Now, the trick will be reattaching the broken, almost microscopic tailpiece back to the plug. These are pot metal pieces. I don't know if I will be so lucky. Any suggestions?

At the back of the plug (where the key goes in), a tiny cylindrical tailpiece is supposed to be attached. When the key turns, the plug turns, and the attached cylindrical tailpiece (which sits inside a groove in the locking bar) actually moves the locking bar to make it protrude so that you can't open the trunk when it is locked.

G'day Jeff,
to Packardinfo. And sorry I can't help with your query but I'm sure that other friendly and experienced Packard people here can and will. And don't forget to add your Packard to the Owner Registry.

This happened to someone else awhile back and there was a bit of discussion on a possible repair. Check it out and see if it might help, otherwise I think a new piece is necessary.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ic.php?post_id=11881#forumpost11881

I went thru this earlier this summer, the tail piece of the lock, called an "adapter" by Packard (these cars sure have a lot of adapters),is die cast and mine snapped off. To put it together and reinstall, just follow the directions in the Service Counsellor article on that topic. You may have to read it twice as i did, but once I understood what it said, it was a snap. If I could remember exactly what the process was, I'd repeat it here, but just look it up, the Service Counsellor is on this website.

Thanks for replies. My problem is slightly different. Take a look at the "nipple" on the end of the plug. Don't confuse misuse of the term "cylinder" in the article The cylinder houses the plug. The key goes into the plug. A plug is alos often called a "core." It is best shown in Figure 5 in the bulletin here:

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO12.pdf

Anyway, the nipple broke off. It is part of the plug, and the plug and nipple are pot metal. If you understand the way the lock works, you can note that the nipple aligns inside a groove in the pawl. The pawl is defined and shown in the bulletin as Part F in Figure 1. A much better picture of it is also contained in Figure 3. The pawl is basically a rectangular piece that serves as the locking latch inside the cylinder.

Need to get that nipple back on or a good substitute....

Most unusual place to break. I just took one apart to look at it and the pin is in the worst place for a repair--what appears to be the thinnest part of the back of lock. To break there, that rectangular piece must have really been binding.

Short of replacing lock cylinder, one possibility would be to thoroughly clean the inside slot area, then fill that empty unused approx 1/16 inch space of the machined opening just opposite the pin with JB weld for a bit more thread area, being careful not to allow it go go past the slot (or at least ensure the movement area is free) where the cylinder retainer clip moves. Then drill and tap for a 6/32 stud about 5/16 long and locktite or epoxy so it can't back out. In theory it would work, but would take a bit of finesse to ensure the stud is the same length and location as original.

After more thought another idea came to mind if you have the patience and tools.

You could go to a hobby shop and get a piece of 1/8 OD brass tubing and a small screw & nut--maybe a 1-72 or 0-80-- to fit the inner diameter of tube. I believe it might be possible to drill a small hole into cylinder and then file the nut sides down enough to fit the slot or using a Dremel enlarge the thick side and only file one side of nut so the screw could bolt though the tubing. Still have to use locktite or epoxy and make sure retaining clip area is clear. Would also take a bit of filing on business end to ensure a smooth fit to the rectangular piece as it appears the diameter is .123 in--slightly less than 1/8. Total length is .168 inch by my measurements. Anyway, just idle thoughts for a project if you wanted to try it. Replacing would still be easier.

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Thanks for the replies. I think I'll just break down and find a new/used one. I'll keep my parts handy in case I have no alternative but to try to fix them. Any suggestions on where to find one? It's just the lock cylinder, so one off an old, rust-bucket junker would even do.

Mike Dulinski would be my choice of a source.

Okay. Who is he, and how do I find him?