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I went back and tried a 1/2 T so more water could get in, no way that's fitting.

Switched to a 3/8" T and moved it so it was vertical and would just miss the throttle linkage and then tightened everything down VERY snug and everything just cleared. I'll test the water temp with another gauge somewhere else as mentioned and compare. I plan on bleeding the fittings by loosening the sending unit after the radiator is in and installed and antifreeze loaded up. After that, hot antifreeze will be right next to the T junction and should keep that antifreeze in the fittings up to temp, if not push some out and new in.

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That looks better as long as the engine doesn't rock and the ground is good. Will be interesting to see the comparison between the two--not that the original gauges were all that accurate anyway. If that setup still proves too big, one other option might be a reducing tee. I don't know what sizes you are working with but a couple on the left in this list look promising.

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it would be GREAT to have a reducing t with male threads on the 1/4 end...if this binds the linkage (there's about a 1/4" gap now) then i'll look to the reducing T or a reducing street T if i can find one. Would have to order both as i've already beffudled everyone local with pipe fitting requests :)

I've got an Echlin TS 6164 Temperature Sending Unit, NIB. I saw the p/n referenced above. Can anyone confirm it's for a Packard?

jack vines

I have also bad temp sending unit. Like here someone write and have used NAPA Echlin TS6464 sending unit, so I got also one. Temp gauge does not reading right. Test with potentiometer connected and instrument cluster temp gauge shows:
Hot = 14,2 Ohms
1/2 way = 26 Ohms
Cold = 72 Ohms

When I use TS6464 gauge reading was too hot. Add one 10 Ohm resistor and reading was correct 1/2 way.

180F thermostat.
Cylinder head 213F
Top water hose 182F
Bottom water hose 167F

This works to me and car is -51 Packard. Echlin TS6464 have same 1/4 thread as old sender and cost just under $13.

Packard had issues with the temp gauge reading high on some 51-53 cars. The first fix was to install a resistor in the power feed to the gauge but there is no reference to the ohms needed in the resistor. That was later followed by making available a different temp sender for those cars with gauges that read high so they would not need the resistor. The fact that others have used the modern sender without issue makes me wonder if your car is one of those that was affected with the faulty reading and the original sender was one of the special ones.

When I got the car temp sending was bad and no any reading, so I look this great forum and find some help, someone write here that TS6464 works. Yes it's close but in my car it looks that engine runs hot and I start check the temperatures from bottom water hose, Top water hose, Cylinder head.
I didn't see any problem at all and temperature readings in running engine looks okay but gauge reading was hot. Add one 10 ohm resistor to the sending unit and gauge reading look's to be right after adding this resistor. This works just for me and I'm not sure is this right fix.

Here is a photo of the plumbing connection I did on my 47 Custom Clipper to install an auxillary electrical temperature gauge. I installed it at the heater connection at the back of the cylinder head in order to retain the original mechanical type gauge. It worked well.

(o[]o)

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