Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

HH56 is right about irfanview, its a free download and safe. I have used for many years at home and work.
Once downloaded open irfanview and tell it where you images are stored. Open your image need to resize with irfanviw and then select "image" from the pull down menu. You will see "resize / resample" left click on this and another menu box opens with various sizes. I use 640 x 480 highlight the button to the left. The image will shrink in size, you can either save or delete it. It will not change your original image unless you make a command to do so.
I used the "save as" option, change the file name to what I want add 1a to the end, so Dashboard 1a as an example. If I change and save the image another time, I will add 1b and so forth.

Good luck. PM if you need more help.
Barry

Thank you all so much for your time. Will try the program later tonight or tomorrow, right now watching the Dodgers loose to the Cubs.

Downloaded Irfanview, as you can see it worked. The big one a failed attempt, again imported wrench with sides ground down to fit between pump body and nut, arms of wrench simply flared open. Other smaller wrench american, with ground down arms, needs to be a bit smaller to fully fit the nut. Can get it on the nut in some positions but not in others.

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Another view of water pump body. Thanks again for all of your time.

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From the Packard 1935 special tool catalog, another of the several styles of Packard water pump packing nut wrenches. Unclear if the one pictured is the one for use on the Twelves but looks fairly straight forward to make one from a 12-point box wrench.

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That's what I need, I think. I believe on the earlier pumps there was a bit more clearance. Just bought on old 12 point Armstrong large closed end wrench, see what it looks like when it arrives.
Thanks again to all.

We make up this kind of crap all the time. A good fabricator could whip something up pretty fast. The Armstrong wrench probably will be heavier than the one in the picture, but maybe not because I have some Armstrong wrenches (25/32, 19/32, and 21/32 used on pre WW-I Packards and Cadillacs) that are light weight.

So if you strike out again I would get a heavy impact socket, take that other wrench to a muffler shop and have them weld the socket to the wrench handle at an angle and cut the square end off. From there you can cut a slot into the socket to go over the shaft.

You could also get a line wrench, heat it with a torch and bend the handle.

A lot of this can get expensive. Another option is call Skip Marketti (I think I got the name right) at the Nethercutt museum and see if they have a wrench that works. Ask them to send you a pencil tracing of the thing and take it from there.

I have homemade Packard water pump tools that I'm still using here Detroit for all sorts of things. I made them up from cheap dollar bin tools and hardened them on the bench. I get a kick when we're in an engineering meeting and I'm using them to do something on a computer controlled vehicle.

I'm surprised the wrench you modified and show in post 23 was flimsy enough to bend unless the wrench lost temper or was really inferior to start with. 12 point crowsfoot wrenches don't look to have much heavier sides than the one you modified -- although the width might be more substantial and that is where they get their strength.

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I have crowfoot wrenches also. The issue is the clearance between the nut points and the pump body. When I ground down the outer part of foot not much left on the sides (walls). But as I say that was a cheap import. Will try with the old american one when it arrives. I have already talked with a couple friends from the collection, while they do not have a tool, they do remember one made by Packard specifically for this job. I have channel locks where I did a bit of grinding for the clearance, problem they tend to mar up the nut.
Also have thought about taking a socket and doing as you suggest. If I go that way, will use old american steel.
In my small machine shop at home, have a Bridgeport Mill, Boyer-Schultz surface grinder, and an industrial lathe, etc. So I like making stuff like this.
When parts are not available I like to try to make. Or if I need to make a mold for parts for my jukeboxes or old radios, etc.
I apologize for taking so much time on this. Again all of you so great!!

You didn't mentioned when you went to try the wrench you made in the very first post if you were trying to tighten or loosen the packing nut. On my '32 it does not take a lot of torque (WAG 10 to 15 ft/lbs) on the packing nut to get the pump to stop leaking.

If your wrench broke while to loosen it, maybe the nut is jammed or rusted in place. If you can't tighten the nut, it may also be jammed or rusted in place or maybe it is as tight as it can get and there is no more packing left to compress to stop the pump from leaking.

If one of the premises mentioned in paragraph two are correct, then the only solution would seem to be removing the pump for a possible rebuild.

Further input from those who have stopped packing leaks might be of an assist to determine how much torque it normally takes to stop a leak of this sort.

Good Luck