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So I've got the new rebuilt BTV system installed thanks to Mr. Kanter for his generosity . my book is saying I need a J - 627 bleeder wrench and A j- 747 bleeder valve in order to bleed the brakes?? is this correct or can I use my aftermarket bleeder ?

I've never used anything special. A wrench to open the bleed screw and a hose to go over the tip of the bleeder and into a bottle to catch the fluid. Pump the brake pedal with engine off and no vacuum present in the reservoir.

Some have been able to use a power bleeder or similar if the setup has a bleeder adapter able to fit the cap opening or fit in the space under the steering column. Pedal would stay relaxed so compensator valve remains open if a power system is used.

The vacuum type bleeders have had mixed results. Some had success and others report a lot of work going into pumping the vacuum side with minimal to no results in fluid being pulled thru. One theory is the vacuum is pulling air thru the loosened bleed screw threads and not enough vacuum is left to pull fluid. Another theory is the cups inside the cylinders are letting air be pulled thru easier than it is to pull fluid.

Same as HH56, just a box wrench to fit the bleeder screw and a short length of tubing to keep things from getting messy.

Well all right I will give it a go in the morning and do it as I do my other vehicles just wanted to make sure there was nothing special about this according to the manual . thanks again

Sometimes the wheel cylinder bleeder screw can be very difficult to crack open. When I encounter this I use a small 1/4-inch, 6-point socket handle to break the screw loose. Then, use a 6-point box end wrench, Like O_D suggested to loosen and tighten the screw when bleeding that wheel. Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way toward it: RR, LR, RF, and LF. Be careful not to empty the fluid out of the master cylinder - or if you do - you get to start over.

(o[]o)

Agreement with all of the brake bleeding comments above. I use just simple tools which includes a clear glass Borden milk jar to catch the old fluid. You need to be sure the end of the hose is below the level of old fluid in the jar or you will get to start over! The other thing is the order of the wheels when bleeding. I just followed the LF-RF-LR-RR and that seems to work. With my just-rebuilt BTV I notice that my brake pedal seems to require a bit more distance for stopping than before. Possible re-bleed the wheels. My old BTV hardly required any pedal distance for contact.

As long as you're prepared to run enough brake fluid thru the system to eliminate all the air, it doesn't really matter which order you do the wheel cylinders in. But normal convention is furthest from the master first, closest to the master last. Pedal travel primarily a function of how far the shoes have to travel to meet the drum, i.e., wheel adjustment.

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The order isn't really critical but the rule of thumb is to work from the cylinders farthest away from the master in order to the closest. That would be (on LHD cars) RR-LR-RF-LF. I've done it this way since a teenager in the '60s but now I use a nice pressure flusher which is far easier and a good investment as I have many old cars that need it due to having been parked untouched for decades.

Are you using silicone or Dot 3 or 4 fluid?

If the system has been renewed with all new rubber components including hoses and brake cylinders, I use full synthetic DOT 4. Although I've never had any problems, I understand from others that older hydraulic brake light switches might not be able to handle synthetic so may also need to be replaced but once done, the system will remain clean for a long time without noticeable degradation of the rubber parts. My own cars are stored where the temperature is extreme from below freezing to very hot and DOT 4 seems to be able to handle it well.