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Last week I purchased my 1st Packard, the car was owned by my 90-year-old friend who did a frame off about twenty years ago. The car is "Like New" and my Friend "Bill" knew I wanted the car and I was the 1st to be offered the car.

Now my question; the engine number of the car is X128562 and I am curious if this is the original engine? The car was delivered March 1937 and also was wondering if there is anything different from early 1937 versus a late production car?

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That motor may or may not be original to your car but it is a 1937 "120" motor; the commonly accepted range of numbers for the 1937 "120" was X-100001 thru X-150267. If the production sequence part of your vehicle number also places the vehicle at about the half-way point of production, that would be suggestive that the motor is more likely original to the vehicle.

I'm don't recall any noteworthy running changes on the '37 models but a read thru the service letters might be worth your time.

Beautiful looking Packard, congratulations.

I know the early production 115Cs had wheels with no slots and the later production cars had wheels with slots. This may or may not apply to the 120Cs.

JWL

As David pointed out, the engine is correct for the car, and that is really all that matters.

Hi

Congratulations! What a fine '37 120 you've acquired for your first Packard. Your friend Bill must be gratified to know his beloved Packard has such a good conservator. Take good care of it, enjoy it as he did.

Welcome too to this Forum, all the help, knowledge and encouragement you might ever need are here simply for the asking. Although your 120 isn't a really project, consider starting a blog in that section anyway, where you can post questions and reference answers more easily if any issues do arise. And, please give us a better look at that gem when you can.

Steve

I do my own wrenching and actually, enjoy it! I have completely re-built many Model A Fords and so far find the Packard to be easy to work on and WOW what quality!.

Yesterday I installed new Cap, Rotor, Points, Wires & plugs and then checked timing "Was right on" then adjusted the Carburetor. Took the car for a spin and she ran super, cruises at 55 comfortably.

Only issues so far that I need feedback on; took my Wife for a ride yesterday and stopped at the Grocery Store so she could pick up something, I intentionally let the car idle waiting for her for about 15 minutes, the temperature never went above 165 and oil pressure heald at 26 but when I went to leave she ran terrible! like she was starving for fuel? seemed to smooth out after a mile but still had a miss? could this just be a fuel vapor issue? or is this normal? one other item is an exhaust manifold gasket leak and which I plan on pulling the manifold to replace, any suggestions about how to replace? use sealant? any advice is always apppreciated. attached some more pictures of my Beautiful Gal!

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Nice to read of you pleasant first experiences. Regarding the exhaust manifold, note that the manifold and block do not expand as a single unit so, no sealant on the gasket.

make sure the fuel pump doesn't need rebuilding. otherwise I say vapor lock, mine does it all the time even when it says it is running normal temps. problem is the fuel line runs close to the exhaust manifold. the fuel pump is also near there.

I throw on the electric fuel pump and it goes away. gas is not what it was 80 plus years ago, especially during the winter when they switch to winter mix.

cli55er, You may be correct, but I have a different opinion on the vapor locking problem.

I doubt it is the fuel line between the pump and carburetor where the vapor locking is taking place. This line is pressurized. This is a common misconception that goes back to the earlier days of the automobile when fuel was delivered to the carb by gravity. The fuel is most likely vaporizing in the carburetor where it is not under pressure and/or on the intake or suction side of the fuel pump.

Insulating the fuel pump from the engine can help prevent vapor locking. This can be done with a thicker gasket and insulating sleeves and washers.

An electric fuel pump mounted close to the gas tank and in parallel with the mechanical pump can overcome vapor locking. It can help to prime the system for starting after the car has been sitting for some time.

I hope this helps.

JWL

Edit: a sheet metal shield around the fuel pump will help keep off some heat from the exhaust manifold.

Did you asked the previous owner? Maybe he will have some ideas as to what is going on.
Wes