Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Yes, your car should have a fuel pump heat shield, if missing they are reproduced. Though the enclosed pix is for a different year and model, yours would be similar.

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Does anyone have a photo of a fuel pump heat shield for a 327? Specifically a Series 25 1952 Packard 300, but I think a photo of any related motor would get me pointed in the right direction.

EDIT: Thanks Owen that was quick!

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I don't use my electric pump except to prime the carb after a long sit. I carry a length of hose and two fittings so in the event the mechanical pump fails I can bypass it and be on my way with the electric. I really don't see a need for a T fitting and return line but I DO see a need for a way to shut the electric pump off if the engine quits as in an accident like that on modern cars. I have thought about hooking the pump electric wire to a oil pressure switch and using two fuel lines as described in the PAC article ( Seagraves method) but since I only use the pump for starting I omitted this item.



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There were fuel pump heat shields on the straight eights from at least the late 30's to 1954 if I recall. I have never had a vapor lock problem on my '47 which does not have the shield installed but maybe because it never gets hot enough in these parts. I just bought an original one on eBay for $30.

51-54 all the same shield. IIRC, Big Kev has some pictures on his project blog of the shield in progress.

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If you were going to run a "full time" electric fuel pump instead of the mechanical pump, then I would recommend using a fuel-pump cut off switch from any modern car. You could probably pull one out of a junkyard car. Basically its a swtich that cuts disconnects the power to the fuel pump if it feels a strong impact. You could mount it in the kick panel space. I have seen it mounted there on some newer cars.

I plan on using a "Flow-thru" electic fuel pump on my car to prime the carb, and also take car of any vapor-lock issues that may arrise. But it will be wired on a momentary switch which takes it power from a switched source.

There is another way to install an electric fuel pump than those already described. This method involves installing the electric pump as close to the fuel tank as possible, and as already covered. Then, instead of tapping back into the fuel line in front of the pump, run another fuel line to the engine compartment. This line will terminate at the output side of the fuel pump. Install a "T" fitting so that the new fuel line can be connected here. Now you have the electric fuel pumped line bypassing the mechanical pump's line. The output valve in the fuel pump will only allow the electric pumped fuel to go one way. No need for a separate one-way valve. Also, should the mechanical pump fail, there would be no danger of pumping fuel into the crankcase. I believe this is considered to be a parallel system.

Yes, that's certainly the more elegant way to do it, and I believe this is the method the CCCA condones.

Kev,

I think you have the right idea here. Using the momentary contact switch ensures that you will only be using the electric pump for as long as your finger rests upon it. No worries about fuel pumping continually in case of an accident.

I agree that should also allow you to clear any vapor lock issues if/when they occur.

Mine is wired up as a straight electric pump right now, with the mechanical pump disconnected except for vacuum purposes. But as soon as the weather warms up (snow and 18 degrees in Indiana today!) that's the way I plan to finalize mine up.

Jay

You should bear in mind if you have an electric fuel pump running thru a stock fuel pump, you may be pushing enough pressure into the carb to cause a chronic flooding condition.

If the stock pump puts out 4 pounds and the electric puts out 6 pounds you will be feeding 10 pounds pressure to the carb.

A needle valve that is only meant for 4 pounds will not hold 10 pounds. In fact it would be lot happier at 2 pounds.

Best solution: forget the electric pump and fix your car so it runs properly.

Next best: Add an electric fuel pump, wired so it is only on when the key is on. Put a switch on the dash so you can switch it on only when starting from cold or in emergencies. Also, add a fuel pressure regulator set to 2 pounds to the carb.

Worst solution: Pile on the fuel pumps and let her rip.

If you just want to drain the tank you can disconnect the fuel line, either under the car or in the engine compartment. Then connect a piece of hose and put it into an empty gas can.

Then, pressurize the gas tank with an air hose.

You can do this by wrapping a rag around the hose nozzle and stuffing it into the gas filler pipe.

Or, if you have an old inner tube, you can make a fuel tank pressurizer.

Cut out a circle of rubber with the air valve in the middle. Clamp the rubber onto your filler pipe with a hose clamp. Pressurize the tank with your air hose.

You don't want to put more than 5 or 10 pounds of pressure on the tank. Neither of these methods will allow much pressure. The rubber method is kind of cool because the rubber bulges up and lets you see the pressure.