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Mike - Checking for a vacuum leak is on my list. My neighbor was saying that spraying starting fluid (I think?) around vacuum connections will help diagnose a leak if the engine speed changes. Right now I need to get the engine to run smoother on it's own. I had to keep a bit of pressure on the accelerator to keep it running.

ptv - Thanks, will do. Hopefully NAPA has a kit that will work.

Ernie - Merritt is definitely on my list of suppliers. I'm hoping that I can source some suitable plug wires locally, but if not I'll give them a call.

JW - The oil I used is apparently suited for applications requiring GL-4 or GL-5. It is non-synthetic. I had no idea that GL-5 was required. All the documentation I saw said only SAE 90. What's the reason behind GL-5 and what kind of problems would other types of oils lead to?

Don - On the air cleaner, there is an indentation on both sides for the choke assembly. So it looks like it could theoretically be placed in either direction, but I'll flip it around to be in line with what the manuals show.

I'll be starting with the simple things like plug wires, because I know for sure they need to be replaced. Fuel pump seems to be working fine. The glass bowl was empty and within a couple of cranks it had pulled fuel from all the way behind the car (gas can was on the ground) and filled the bowl.

-Kevin

I doubt you'll find a wire set locally but you can buy the wire on a spool along with the end connectors which just push on and easily make your own. I used to sell kits like that through the Packard Club many years ago using Delco Packard wire. I had forgotten about that until recently when I noticed the Packard name on the Patrician's wires.

Brillman sells everything you need, for good prices too. There are other vendors as well. Not sure what the wire finish was like on the post-war cars, but I was able to source lacquered wire for my '37 that is all modern on the inside, and the correct solid core wiring. Easy project, and a good one!

GL-4 if fine for your diff. Diffs require a high quality oil because of the sliding action of the hypoid gear teeth.

Starting fluid works fine for detecting vacuum leaks; WD-40 works the same, but has the advantage of being less volatile and therefore safer! I've heard of people using propane too, but I like the control of a spray can and a fluid I can see.

Have fun!

Pm sent for contacts! David Moe or Old parts N.W. in our area!

When I mentioned looking for vacuum leaks, I meant just checking that all the rubber hoses going from the carb to fuel pump to wipers and brake booster are not leaking. To check them, just make sure there are no hoses disconnected or with cracks. Just go over the hoses with you hand, bend them between your fingers while the engine is running, and listen for sucking sounds. That will tell you if you have a big leak someplace.
Using WD40 or something is more for checking for leaks between the carb base and intake manifold and between intake manifold and engine block. You can also do that to.
Hope you find something easy that improves the running condition. Once I found the large vacuum line going to the treadle vac unit simple disconnected on a car! That was a simple fix that made a night and day difference.
A hand held vacuum gauge would be a good addition to your tool box to get your car idling better and assist in tuning. They are not that expensive.

I also had a leak heard a sucking sound looked all over engine bay turns out it was the hose on the washer bottle.

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Ross said it better. Packard differentials require a high pressure rated oil because of the hypoid type gears.

Good afternoon...David Moe is Packard Seattle Company 425-293-7709. Very good fellow. Ernie in Arizona