Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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I have never pulled an Ultramatic from underneath and always take out the complete assembly from above although typically without manifolds. My engine lift is a cheapie but old so possibly stronger than those made today. Of course, I am not after the transmission itself so if that's the part you want to take out for work, there is no reason not to do it from underneath!

Back in the day we always removed the Ultramatics from under the car. It involved jacking up the car high enough to get the transmission out. We had good floor jacks and jack stands. The top trans to bell housing bolts needed a long extension and a universal type socket. We used a trans cradle that fit in a floor jack to support the trans to roll it out from under the car. It took us about 2-hours to do this job, as I recall. Not a fun job, but that's the way we did it.

Be very careful when jacking up the car and make sure you have good and strong jack stands. Can't emphasize this enough. You will also need a cradle in which to secure the trans. If you don't have one of these, then removing the trans and engine together is probably the best way.

Good luck.

About 8 years ago I had my 51 Packard up on J/stands to do 4 wheel brake job. I had been given a rebuilt ultramatic trans and decided to do the trans change at the same time. I guess because I didn't know any better I got stacks of wood blocks 2 floor jacks and went to work laying on a creeper pulled the drive line, disconnected spedo, wires, bolts on the rear trans mount and support, etc. One of the floor jacks was placed with blocks of wood under the rear of the engine and the other floor jack was under the trans pan with more wood to support the trans. I was then able to pull the trans mount cross member and removed all the bolts at the bell housing...don't remember if the Torque con., came out on the shaft or not. Used the floor jack to move the trans while adjusting the front floor jack going back and forth I finally got the trans back far enough to roll it back and lowered the floor jack pulling the jack out with trans. I'm sure there's other stuff like checking the motor mounts, etc., but I did this by myself taking probably 3 hours. Knowing what I know now I'd have a helper.

I have all the connections loose. Hopefully today is the day it comes out. Is it a good idea to lossen the engine mounts? The manual is kind of vague.

Slow progress

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The top bolt is much easier with a hole.

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I realize it is early in the process and might not be in place yet or if the iron work above the lift might be the support. If not don't forget to have some kind of supports for the rear of the engine that you can work around if the car stays in place or supported by the frame if you need to move the car while the trans is out.

Here is what Packard used.

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Thanks planning to build a version of that out of angle iron and 2x10.

John would you give us some details about the lift and structure between the lift and frame? I’ve been mentally going back and forth between 4 post, 2 post, 2 post portable, and scissor, and so far procrastination is in the lead. I seem to get hung-up on the weight of the car versus the capability of the lift.

dp

Sure. I have a full (6ft.) Rise platform lift. It is a 7000 lb. Atlas brand lift from Greg Smith Equipment company. It was delivered and installed by a suggested installer. The center is open which helps for getting to the trans and drive shaft. My current garage only allows a 4 foot rise. I use the lift for modern vehicles too. The Packard frame rails in the front are much narrower than modern unibody car lift points. If you have the height and width in your garage I would go 2 post. Easier to line up the car and easy access to everything underneath. If you have height and or width issues a platform lift helps fit it in small places. Happy to take any pics if you like.

The rails I built are to lift the car but give access to drop tranny. Usually I stick straight tubes front and back to lift.

Regards