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Brought my daughter for her first ride in the car last night. Came out this morning, back tire is flat as a pancake - stupid Louisiana roads!

Car is a '29 with the wire wheels and the bright snap ring on the outside of the rim. So, question is, what's the process for getting that ring off, dismounting the tire and stuffing a new tube in, preferably without killing myself. Very aggitating because the tires and tubes are less than three months old, and yes, has the flappers in it.

With the crappy roads we have around here and a lot of debris still lying around from Hurricane Ida, probably picked up a nail or something. Just curious how much hell on earth I'm in for! Thanks guys!

Good Luck.

You need to be VERY careful working with the widow makers... The process is actually pretty simple but can be dangerous.

1- Lay the tire flat on the ground
2- Remove all of the air out of the tire (i am sure the flat did that for you) and pull out the center of the valve stem.
3- Pry off the split rim by using flat bladed tools (I use two tools designed only for this purpose-- think large regular slotted screw driver with the corners ground into a curve)
4- Carefully pry from the split one way all the way around the tire. It may be difficult as some rust on the ring have bonded to the rim
5- With the ring removed you should be able to remove the tube and check for internal issues. I always check my rim, flap and inside of the tire with a soft cloth that will snag easily (I use a set of my wife's panty hose- just don't tell her)
6- Insert the tube and add a FEW pounds of air to it. I make sure the tube is seated correctly and the valve stem is aligned properly.
7- Remove the value stems inside valve again, ensure the tire is seated correctly on the rim and install the split rim ring. It should snap in reasonably easily with the assistance of a rubber mallet.
8- Reinstall the inside of the vale stem and add a FEW pounds of air. I hit the entire outside wall of the tire with the mallet and ring to ensure the ring and tire are seated correctly and there is even spacing around the ring and the tire.
9- Use an air pressure gauge on your air compressor hose that will clamp on the the end of the valve stem without you having to hold it.

10- While using the clamp on air gauge...use a tire cage and inflate the tire to about 20 lbs. Assuming you need about 60 lbs of air pressure... verify that the tire and ring have not moved and add another 10 lbs. I use a dead blow hammer and beat the side wall with the hammer while in the tire cage. If the tire and ring still have not moved, I bring it up to operating pressure.

Install the tire and enjoy your ride.
Best of luck.

NOTE:
If you don't have access to a tire cage, you can make something that will stop the split ring from shooting off the tire and decapitating someone.

Using a clamp on air gauge is a must.

With wire wheels you can put straps through the spokes as safety against the snap ring blowing out. As well, the tire should be lined with talcum powder, and inflated and deflated to unwind the tube. As mentioned, inflate the tire facing away from you against the wall. When you are done let the tire fall flat on the floor face down and let sit at least a half an hour. Mount the wheel and remove the straps. Inspect the rim for any cracking on the snap ring bead prior to installing the tire. I used the straps whenever feasible. They don't have to be tight, they are there to keep the ring from flying across the room.

At the USO shows they used to joke with all the bragging about the taxpayers paying for schools and road building by the military, when were we going to declare war on ourselves and invade Detroit.

Very good explanation by the way, I would add that I use my feet to walk the lock ring back in place. By all means do not use a sledge hammer, if you miss, the damage to the rim is not repairable. I use a squeeze clamp to hole the ring at the split then stomp down with the heal of my tennis shoe. That way if the ring springs back you can hold it down with your other foot and work your way around the rim. I also bounce the tire on the ground a few times while rotating it, that is an old trick to get any folds out of the tube. Baby powder works with tube insert too.

If you don't have access to a tire cage, you can make something that will stop the split ring from shooting off the tire and decapitating someone.

Once the ring is visually and seemingly in place per the discussions above, one of the car restoration shows on TV filmed in a shop that did not have a cage laid a good sized piece of fairly thick plywood over the tire and rim and then put the whole thing flat on the floor under the lower shelf of a heavy work bench. Used a long hose to the compressor so he was out of the way.

If no workbench, might be able to do the same thing with the tire under a car frame. Important thing is to keep the ring from flying upward any great distance.

[quote]
Tim Cole wrote:
With wire wheels you can put straps through the spokes as safety against the snap ring blowing out. As well, the tire should be lined with talcum powder, and inflated and deflated to unwind the tube. As mentioned, inflate the tire facing away from you against the wall. When you are done let the tire fall flat on the floor face down and let sit at least a half an hour. Mount the wheel and remove the straps. Inspect the rim for any cracking on the snap ring bead prior to installing the tire. I used the straps whenever feasible. They don't have to be tight, they are there to keep the ring from flying across the room.

Exactly the way I got told to do it by a VERY experienced antique car guy who shall remain nameless - ten points!

He said just put some tie-down straps on it and don't worry about it. Has done it for decades without incident.

Can't lay this wheel face down as the center extends past the rim, but, not too worried about it now. Have to wait for the tube to get here, but, I think I can get this now!

Thanks much, I'll post pics of the lazy way to do this provided it works!

Split rims are scary and dangerous. Much as I dislike mainstream media and the tales they tell. 60 Minutes did a story 40 years ago about a young man who was working a split rim for a truck, and it blew to pieces while he was in front of it. Nearly killed him and left him slightly more than a vegetable.


Were it mine, I'd change it out for a one-piece rim if possible. Were I stuck with it, I'd absolutely get a tire cage, or hire it out to someone who has one.


It's a hobby - $#!t ain't worth dyin' over.

There are not split rim rims on an early Packard, they are LOCK RING rims. Split rims are two piece rims, that are bolted together, and used almost exclusively on construction equipment. Also a 100 lbs per sq in. truck tire, is a different animal than a 40 lb 1930's car tire. That said there are dangers if not handled properly as outlined in earlier posts above. I would not take these to any local tire store where some 16 yr old is changing tires. Yes a truck tire facility is still the best option, however many of us have done these tire changes without incident for years. One important factor to consider is the type of tire being used here. 1930's cars require 1930's type tires made for lock ring rim installation. The tire bead is the most important aspect of this. One tire still produced is the Firestone Balloon tire, which I am told are made in the original molds from the 1930's. These tires mold around the lock ring as the tire is inflated putting pressure on the lock ring and forcing it into the ring groove. People make a big mistake installing the wrong tire and that a major mistake with these cars, no radials here. Also check to make sure the ring has not lost its set. The ring should fit the groove and snap in tight when installed, I have seen many rings that have lost their tension and should not be used.

Actually you can. Lay two boards parallel under a blanket or card board or whatever and let it go.

That tip came from Anne Klein.