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One other thing to be aware of if using a Sanden on a positive ground car is that they are generally expected to be used and may come wired for negative ground. Some but not all of the Sanden clutches have a built in protector diode to shunt back EMF generated by the collapsing magnetic field to ground so it does not damage any solid state electronic components in modern AC units.

If using a Sanden with a diode and positive ground, you can remove the diode and leave it out because there is nothing on a stock Packard that would be damaged. Because of polarity, it is not likely there could be any solid state components in any aftermarket AC you could use but if there could be any on the same power supply as the compressor then you would need to leave the diode but reverse the connections on the diode. Leaving it intact and having a positive ground will result in a direct short and at the least would blow the diode and a fuse or at the worst, damage the switch or thermostat controlling the clutch.

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A very belated "Thank You" for your time and information..............Marc

Hoard R134a because it is being phased out. It breaks down in 6 to 8 weeks but a patent was made for r1234 which breaks down in a few days and so they bought off the EPA and got a mandate. You can build some planet killer monster truck but make sure it has r1234. I am in full agreement that irresponsibility is destroying humanity's habitat, but the stupidity involved in this greenhouse gas stuff has me thinking the world will be better off when we have done ourselves in.

I only found your reply/information this am. I will print and file. My attempt to add the AC will begin April when I return from Florida to NC.

A most sincere "Thank you" for your information.

Best of Health.............Marc

Quote:

Marc, you should have stayed in NC this winter.......it's been in the high '60s/low '70s for the last week or so here in Kernersville!

Paul,
We are neighbors. I am in Greensboro. Is there any possibility of my coming to your home and "picking your brain," in the spring.

If not, I respect your privacy. Marc

So far, this discussion has focused on the engine compartment. Attached is a creative integration example of the controls and outlet tube of a retrofitted air conditioning system.




"...the A/C or heat comes out of the radio grilles..."


source: vaultcars.com

Not bad. Only downside to the speaker grill as an outlet -- unless there is another control of some type even more disguised and working louvers behind the dash, is possibly a lack of ability to direct airflow.

Another shoutout for commendable integration work would be to Joe W. and his 23rd series AC install.

I don't believe Joe used the speaker grill area as an outlet but he did do a beautiful job of adding other outlets to the dash to make them blend in and look more like they belonged. Since he is using a different radio setup, also did a great job of mounting the AC controls in the opening where the radio face would have been.

For anyone contemplating adding AC to their 22-23 series and interested in details of his work and items used, other photos of the install are available at Tinman_70's more complete project blog on the PAC forum.

One man's solution to installing an AC in a 6+ car.

youtube.com/watch?v=zMFV6Wfo1j0

dp

Good video. Others have also mentioned using the 12v Sanden as is and they do apparently work OK -- particularly once the engine is running and generator is producing the normal charging 7+ volt output. I think Dwight has one in his 54 factory air car and there is at least one more aftermarket install in a Packard somewhere in Southern CalIf.

Do like the way he did the belt as the idler pulley takes care of a lot of issues when there is only the one long belt option. Downside is cars with wider belts like Packard sometimes used usually do not take very well to bending backwards on small diameter idlers. Not sure there would be room for a much larger one and anyone with a 356 and the thick 1" wide belt would probaby be out of luck. I expect those of us with that setup will need to find or make something like the special prewar fan pulley with the AC groove or figure out a second drive pulley groove somewhere else.

Do wish he had been more specific about the 6 to 12v inverter he used for the blower motor. Many of them specifically say for electronics only and not for use with motors or coils.

The old Nash seemed to move along quite well even though the engine sounded like it could use a valve adjust. I just hope his luck holds out when he blows thru the next stop sign like he did the one on the drive.