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And museum quality construction! Built for the ages!

Some assembly is still required. This car will be for sale. I wanted to save the unloved 200 in my backyard, and wanted to try the 4 door with the coupe roof. Rear doors open from within and give access to storage under the bed and the spare behind the seat.

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Ross, be so kind to inform your marketing department that a picture says more than 1,000 words.

What's the brown car in the background of the bottom picture?

Also, could you post a picture with the rear doors open? And of how they open?

The brown car is the airport transfer car!

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It's a Studebaker!

Marketing was able to get engineering to take a few more photos of the prototype.

Release is next to the seat and a small spring helps the doors pop open. I'll be using a set of tan leather-option door panels as shown. The bas relief script will be illuminated whenever any doors is open

The mystery vehicle is my delightful 50 Commander--which incidentally was a huge hit in the local Independence Day Parade last Sunday.

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Nice! Is the spring you mean thr one on the latch, or is there another added?

Are the door panels a period design, or custom?

Also what do you mean be "bas relief script"? The script in the bed?

For this car, but mentioned in a thread elsewhere: the high point of my week was painting these items ivory to simulate the original (optional) tenite wheel and fittings. I am waaaaay too cheap to toss a grand to have a wheel recast so I painted this hard rubber one. It turned out very well so I will pass along what I've learned:

Fill and level cracks with a good epoxy.
Spray on two good coats of epoxy primer. I do this to hinder outgassing of the hard rubber which should slow further shrinkage. For color I chose Rustoleum Almond. They have several pleasing off-whites to choose from. Two light coats does the job. Let dry 2 days.
An old friend taught me this trick: For long term handling, you will need to clearcoat the Rustoleum in any event. So I took a good quality clearcoat and mixed a little of the Almond paint into it so that it was milky looking. Then I sprayed 3 coats on everything. The milky clearcoat suggests the translucence of the original Tenite and the result is very pleasing. Hey, I've something on the order of $15 tied up in this now.



The other hot trick I learned this week: cutting fiber or jute carpet padding is a pain even with good shears or a fresh knife. Try a thin metal-cutting disc in your right angle grinder. Works beautifully.

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Excellent Ross, thanks for the tips. I had no idea the steering wheel was made of hard rubber. I just thought it was plastic.

A couple of questions:
1.) Did you paint the car with single stage urethane or did you do a base and clear?

2.) Door panels....did you make them or did you have someone else do them? They look great. For the embossed lines did you actually emboss or are they sewn in?

3.) Clear coat on the ivory bits....was that an actual 2-part clear through a paint gun, or did you use one of the clear lacquers from a spray can?

-Kevin