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Forgive my "cut-away" doodles in this post. I have been doing some online research about the drip rails and this is what I have discovered.

The tri-5 Chevy's have a 3-layer, metal, roof line with the drip rail in the center.

My Packard also has a 3-layer, metal roofline but the drip rail is on the bottom, as shown in my doodle.

Now (at least some of) the re-pops of the tri-5s gutters are meant to be screwed in from the bottom and look just like my Packard. That way tri-5 owners could cut off their old rusty gutter and just reattach a new one without having to open up the roof.
The tri-5 gutter appears to be very similar to the 55 Packard in that it is mostly a J Strip. I just can't find a close-up view of one online to confirm that and they are $100+ each.

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I finally found a close-up of the tri-5 drip rail. A company in Australia is reproducing them and I stumbled upon their website.

The shape is correct as I had hoped. Another site says that the length of these is about 2 inches longer than the Packard so that too will work.

The only real issue now is that they all appear to be plain steel and not stainless steel. I guess I can just paint it if needed. There is plenty of shiny parts that it probably not be missed.

Now, how bad do I want to try this and spean all that cash.

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Depending on their production process, they might be able to substitute stainless steel. I don't think it's likely, as stainless is much harder to work with, but it might be worth it to email and ask.

Wonder what it would cost to chrome plate or even do a chrome powder coat on the steel molding rather than paint.

Adding some clearcoat to the fenders this weekend. They need a little sanding and then polishing but they came out good.

I ordered a tri-five drip rail (left side) from Current 2 CLassic (C2C). They sent me a right side instead. There were 4 different labels on the packaging. 2 of them said left-hand side. A third said RH but was corrected to LH with a sharpie and the last one said RH and that was the correct label. That is OK I need them both I only wanted to buy one for now in case it does not work.
I think it will work but I am going to have to do some heating and bending.
Any suggestion on heating this thin metal enought to bend?

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In 2020 I built this greenhouse. To bend all those wooden bows I had to build a large jig to clamp them to. It was fun.

I think I can do something similar to bend this drip rail. I'll start playing with that idea tomorrow.

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Love the form of your greenhouse.

Make sure you use seam sealer between the drip rail and the roof. You should be able to get it from a local automotive paint supplier. You want good contact between the rail and the roof because it doesn't work great as a caulking compound.

BTW nice looking Green House.

I assembled a jig as I mentioned and used large C clamps to bend the tri-5 drip rail into shape and it appears to have worked.
I was able to reshape the curve of the rear window and I think it will work fine.
There is some wrinkling along the new bend. I think I can make some slices and take the pressure off of those spots and then tack them with my welder.

I may have been able to get a cheap harbor freight metal shrinker and stretcher set and accomplished the same thing but everything in this jig was scrap wood.

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I did not have to use any heat to straighten the wavy edges. Hammer and dolly did just fine. I also added an additional 3/8 of an inch of metal down the whole length of the drip rail. The original piece did not leave much to work with.

Test fitted the whole thing today. If anyone can post a picture of both ends of the drip rail it would be appreciated. I am sure that at least the front of it has to be curved or pointed. I hope to spot weld it into place this weekend. I have already ordered the other side from c2c.

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