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Normally a short wire to the sender lays on top of the tank and goes rearward where it connects to an inline connector near a grommeted hole at the back of the trunk below the vertical panel under the lid.

As I recall it uses the same hole toward the middle the license light wire goes thru. I think hole is in the trough the loom uses to cross over to the right tail light but can't really remember if in the trough or if there is a raised portion level with the trunk floor immediately behind the vertical panel.

The inline connector is usually in the trunk where it connects the short sender wire to the wire in the body loom but I have seen some connectors outside just below the hole.

ToddPackard for including your '56 Patrician Touring Sedan in the Packard Vehicle Registry.

So I got this from the mechanic about my window not rolling back up :

“I was able to get left rear window to work ,missing a few small parts on regulator guide so cannot go all the way down must leave it up 2inches or comes off the track...lf was binding and chattering going up and down .now not engaging motor to regulator makes a spinning sound removed door panel found window motor getting hot to the touch of hand.most likely will need motor regulator assembly tried to take it lose but screws stripping may need to drill them out..”

Has anyone fixed this in the past and if so how hard was getting parts?

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Without knowing details of what is missing from the regulator that would prevent lowering the window it is hard to make any suggestions but you might check with Pacific Southwest Packards right in your neighborhood or Mike Dulinski in Minnesota to see about another regulator. The major vendors might have something too. PSW had several V8 doors at one time and Mike has a multitude of 55-6 parts cars.

Not sure about finding motors if that is what you need. NOS Delcos were extinct even when Stude was still supplying Packard parts so used and sometimes expensive is best you will find today. At one time Ross Miller had some so you might try him if the others cannot help. You would need to take care of any mechanical issues or binding before changing the motor though.

If not successful with an original motor maybe get in touch with Riki and get the details on how his mod is working out. He figured out how to use the pinion and shaft off the old motor and make an adapter to mount that piece onto a modern aftermarket motor. Along with a mounting plate needed for a different motor bolt pattern and a couple of relays to bridge the old and new electric requirements, last I heard it seems to have made a workable solution.

Yapo.

Motors are working great.

They have plenty of power.

The motor hh56 had was easier to modify. .


Picture is from 2nd motor

Edit.

Hh56 motor. Pictures 2.3 bottom

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What motors did you use? and can you post a picture of the wiring diagram please?

I can supply the electrical diagram and a photo of the first loom that was made for testing but cannot tell you the final motor info. Almost all aftermarket motors made today are permanent magnet type and reverse direction by reversing polarity. Being as the motors are POLARITY SENSITIVE the wiring diagram connections will differ between 55 and 56.
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We originally started with a Dorman 9 tooth pinion motor at roughly $35 from Amazon and was going to have a new 6 tooth pinion gear and adapter combo made to fit the motor output and Packard regulator. Riki came up with the idea of reusing the old motor shaft and pinion which would just require a much simpler adapter piece that could be turned on a lathe. He has tried different motors in the same price range to see if he could get one that would require minimal work to the motor to enable the old pinion shaft and new adaptor piece to attach. I believe he also changed the mounting plate or added some standoffs in order to be able to use the longer old pinion and shaft. He can supply the motor info and maybe a photo or two of the mounting and adapter if he has made a final motor decision. Also not sure if he decided if one motor can do both sides or if it needs a mirror.

Here is the wiring diagram and a photo of the originally selected motor and mounting plate.

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Ya'll are the best!

Little update. This is the drivers side front power window motor and regulator. Kanter is sold out. I think the best (possibly only option) is to modify a replacement like mentioned above.

Thank you again.

What part of ca are you.


Dorman motor. 250 or 251.

There are left and rights.

Any machine shop can make adapter.

Unless your able. Drill press for plate.

Pretty much need a lathe for adapter.


Edit..

That's right your up north.

I have a dorman window motor book I got from a parts place going out of business.

Didn't see the motor hh56 had.

But I believe the one I'm using on pass side is on there

Hh56 motor is on drivers side.

If you do want original.

I believe gerry. Psw..

Has them.