Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

You might be lucky with a bump to the channel in a small area but if the lid cannot get any more pressure on the weatherstrip I would still be a bit concerned about trying to do anything with the channel position. The way the channel is constructed and reinforced with the edge bends, any attempt to raise the metal might also damage the body or crack the paint.

Not much in body maintenance is suggested for prewar cars but postwar the recommendation was to shim the weatherstrip with thin rubber strips in places where the seal was not adequate. I would think that should work on the 37 also since the body construction and weatherstrip is somewhat similar.

Here is an excerpt from the 51-4 manual with their shim suggestions for doors. The same advice for checking and repair leaks is given in the trunk lid section. McMaster has several selections for very thin rubber strips and glass setting tape might also work.

Attach file:

---

  weatherstrip.jpg (54.64 KB)

Howard, thanks for that information! I did try the paper test, as Don had suggested. There is a portion on the top of the trunk where there is drag, but less than the rest of the weatherstrip.

I will probably try pouring water on the seam, and see if it penetrates the trunk, and then shim the gutter strip.

Hi Ken, have been following along for awhile, thoroughly enjoy your blog, so thank you.

I have a 39’ 120 Club coupe. Has about 5,000 miles on it since a full engine rebuild, and I’m beginning to experience some of the same overheating woes that you were. I had my radiator recorded before the engine rebuild, and even re flushed and checked before the new engine was installed. After the rebuild, I installed a 7 blade flex fan to help maintain the temperature while it was being broken in, but now it doesn’t seem to be helping and my engine as well will begin to run anywhere between 180-200 depending on load, speed, and extended idling.

Anyways my intent with this now rambling question is, do you think your radiator was the main issue for running warm? Thanks

I would take that flex fan off and put the factory one back on and see what happens. Also double check timing.

Good Morning...Just a comment...some years, Packrd offered heavy duty fans...at a slight extra cost. Depending on outside temps in your part of the county...might be worth seeing if one was offered and tracking one down. Ernie in Arizona.

I have some for the 1951-1954 era but unfortunately none earlier.

I did recently try the factory fan, still running warmer at idle and high speeds
Thank you for all the recommendations.

Russell, this may have been covered earlier. If it has please disregard.

Is the temperature gauge reading correctly? Have you verified the engine temperature with another meter or device like a hand held reader?

What is the temp rating for the thermostat? Many try and use a 180 stat which is too high a rating for these engines. A 160 may be a better choice.

Did you assure the distribution tube is in place and in good condition? This tube is essential to properly circulating coolant through the engine.

Running hot a idle may be related to retarded ignition timing. Running hot at cruising speeds may indicate circulation problems.

I don’t want to hijack Ken’s thread so maybe I should begin a new one for this.

Verified temperature with a laser temp reader

Using a 160 degree thermostat currently

Water distribution tube properly in place.

The engine has about 5,000 miles on it since being rebuilt, it’s just seeming to run warmer now then it has before.

Thanks again

Hi! Thanks for the kinds words, and sorry for the delayed reply.

If you're still running a little bit hot, I would:

1. Ensure the re-cored radiator is an original, cellular style core with high flow, vice a modern core, that restricts flow to achieve a high temperature drop. That was ultimately what solved my issue.

2. Verify timing, and fuel mixture. Running too lean, or with the timing off, can cause the car to run warm.

Good luck!