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Looking for any advice including but not limited to order of "checks", component rebuilds, etc. from the pros out there as I try and focus on getting the engine running on my 39 Packard Six. I am dealing with sketchy old original wiring on top of it all so I believe my initial testing would be components along the trail there but what do I know (?). I suspect the engine block itself will require a more thorough/proper rebuild but hoping to do as much as I can myself to minimize costs along the way. (Once I get a chance I'll start a Project Blog but I may end up being the slowest project blogger of all.) Thanks!

Good luck with it.


I'm not exactly setting the world on fire with any of mine, either. Life has intervened for the moment. But I keep waking up mornings, so there's that.

If you are worried about the wiring, it's hardly any wiring to just replace the ignition system wiring and wire an ign and starter switch just right under the hood. Then once the car is in decent running shape, you can reconnect the original wiring.

One thing to know is that you only really need to inspect for breaks or shorts, and with a car that old, shorts would probably melt/burn the wires for lack or fusing. If you can hook a battery up and you don't see loose wires hanging anywhere, the wiring is probably fine for the time being. Though if I had a car like that I would replace all the wiring in it at various convenient parts of the repair process.

If you don't have one buy a cheap "bump" switch from Harbor Freight. It's very handy for turning the motor over and starting it while under the hood. With that and a few alligator clip test wires you can pretty much start run the motor without using any of the car's existing electrical.

Old wiring likes to shed it insulation in the most hard to see and reach locations. So I treating wiring like I treat brakes. Like you worst enemy worked on it last.

I would bypass most of the wiring as suggested above by disconnecting the body feed wire. Many old Packards have a manual starter button located on the starter solenoid. Ignition can be wired through a manual switch. Use 6 volts only on 6 volt systems.

I would drain the oil from the engine and replace it with 10W30 conventional oil with 20% Marvel Mystery Oil. I would also remove the spark plugs and lay them out in the order removed and inspect them for condition and to look for indications of problems in each cylinder. I'd also use a pump oil can to squirt about a tablespoon full of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder and let it sit overnight.

Most likely, the fuel system is gummed up and things like fuel flex lines are dried out and leaking air. I'd put a couple of gallons of gasoline in the tank, if it still has a bottom, then let it sit overnight and then drain it into a clean container and dispose of it.
It's best to do this outside, since the tank may leak or begin to leak, and you do not want gasoline leaking in an enclosed space.

Do not crank or start the engine without water or coolant in the radiator. Doing so will burn out the water pump seal.

Using a pump oil can and motor oil, oil the generator, starter, water pump, distributor, accellerator linkage, etc, befor trying to start the engine. I would spray a liberal dose of WD 40 into the carburetor bowl before attempting to start the engine. I would carefully remove the air cleaner and be sure it is free of mud dauber nests, etc. and be sure the choke is not stuck shut.

Be sure the exhaust is not obstructed.

You can expect to encounter problems with the fuel system, carburetor, ignition points and condenser, and so forth. If the casr was worn out when taken out of service years ago, it will still be worn out, but it can probably be made to run fairly dependabley.

DO NOT abuse the stater and other electrical equipment by applying 12 volts to the car. You will need a full-size, high quality 6 volt battery, and you can expect to need to clean or replace all the battery and ground cables. Use only quality, full-gauge cables and terminals. Cheap battery cables are not cheap; they are WORTHLESS.

You can expect to have to rework the hydraulic brake system. DO NOT push on the brake pedal until you have made sure that there is fluid in the master cylinder. Doing so will most likely cause the master cylinder to stick. If the reservoir is low on fluid or empty, fill it to within 1/4" of the top and let it sit overnight or longer. Then use your hand to gently move the brake pedal down partway. Do this several times before putting any real pressure on it. Recheck the fluid level. If the brakes seem to work, you're lucky, but you can expcet leaks to develop as soon as you try using the brakes.

Thanks everyone.

Good advice from TxGoat. I would also recommend one more thing. Remove the oil pan and clean it and the oil pump pick up screen. This will ensure good clean supply of oil will be available to the engine when it is started. Also since the car has been sitting for a long time, the oil pump may have lost its prime. The pump may need priming before the engine is run. A small price to pay in effort and parts.

All god advice! I've never had to prime an oil pump on a Packard but certainly not a bad idea to do so.