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You're doing all the right things! As for #8 being rings, it's possible but seems unlikely so probably still a value isn't seating completely as rings would have to be virtually gone to give 0 compression. Personally I would have preferred removing the head but you may just get it going this way too.

Agree with your efforts.... zero compression would almost probably not be a ring issue. Most likely a valve.

You can continue trying to free up the valve but eventually pulling the head would eliminate the guess work and would save you time.

In addition, it would give you a new head gasket, a chance to look at the valves and the opportunity to check the water pump and distribution tube while you are at it.

You might as while at the point.

Good luck
Chris

Quote:

I'm kind of curious to see if we can get it running without pulling the head, just to see if it's possible. But we're prepared to pull it if need be. I have a valve spring compressor coming in case we need to pull valves as well.

The water pump doesn't need to come off with the head, does it? We've only seen the engine run for a short period of time, but didn't see any leaks or obvious issues with the cooling system. And doesn't the radiator need to come out to pull the water distribution tube?

-Kevin

No, water pump removal is not required when removing the cylinder head.

Thanks OD, that's what I thought. Plan currently is to leave the water pump alone unless we see a problem. Top priority is to get the valve and compression issue cleared up and get the car running. Then brakes to be able to drive it. At that point we'll see what else pops up and address it from there.

If we have to pull the head, any tips on best ways to go about it? Can it be lifted off by hand or do we need to rig up something to screw into the spark plug holes? I've started pre-soaking the nuts with penetrating oil in case we have to pull it.

-Kevin

You have hydraulic lifters so there is a good chace that one of the #8 lifters has not collapsed back to normal working height yet and is holding a valve open.

My suggestion is to get it running by any means possible. Feel free to jump it with 12 volts so it spins a bit faster. Then get under that fender and keep on spraying pen. oil on those reluctant intake valve stems while the lifters keep bumping them. If that does not work then you will have to pull the head and the valves. Oh, and test all the lifters in case one of them was overstressed forcing open a stuck valve and now can't hold it's liquor any more.

Quote:

Thanks Ross, that was what I was thinking as well. Lifters may be part of the problem on #8. Hopefully with some heat cycles we can get things freed up. The lifter under #1 intake is the one I'm worried about. That may have taken too much force when we tried to start it on the trailer, not knowing the valves had gummed up.

How many heat cycles would you try before admitting defeat and pulling the head?

Success!

I put the plugs back in, new rotor and cap, verified the timing and gave it a shot. It took a bit to get it started. Once it started it was very rough and took some work to keep it going. It struggled for a minute or two, then changed on a dime and smoothed out. It was an instant difference.

Watching the valves, #1 and 4 both released and were working normally (as far as I could see). The car started to idle normally and sounded much better. Still some shaking to the engine but much improved.

Video right after the valves released:


The smoke was something to behold. It completely covered the back half of our property (1 acre) and spread to two of our neighbors. It filled the shop, even with the big bay doors and all the windows open. All mosquitos in a 1000 yard vicinity are dead.

I let it run for about 10 minutes while it got up to temp, then shut it down to heat soak. I rechecked the compression and these are the new numbers:
1 - 150
2 - 155
3 - 148
4 - 149
5 - 152
6 - 143
7 - 139
8 - 0

The valves still aren't closing completely on 8. We don't know what kind of oil the previous guy put in, so we will be draining that this weekend and replacing with Rotella 10W-30. We will also install an oil pressure gauge under the dash.

There is a loud tick, it sounds like it's coming from the front. With a stethoscope it seems to be coming from the intake lifter on #1. It's hard to tell. We may not completely get away from pulling the head if the lifter is bad. But I want to try out new oil and running the engine to see if things settle in and quiet down.

Video of the tick after the engine warmed up:


-Kevin

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Looks like you're getting there! For the tick at the front, do you have an automotive stethoscope? If so, try it on the fuel pump. Not likely but it is a possibility that often gets overlooked.

In addition to the fresh, multi-grade detergent oil, adding a quart of Marvel Oil or Rislone to the crankcase may be helpful with stuck or gummy lifters, rings, and valves. Don't overfill it.

Adding a pint of Sea Foam or Marvel Oil to the gas tank can also be helpful. A pint of either product to 10 gallons of gas would be enough.

I'd run the engine as you have been doing, avoiding either extended idle periods or high engine speeds.


A squirt oil can with a 50-50 mix of Sea Foam and Marvel Oil can be used to oil up the rings and valve guides. Run the engine until hot, then just before you shut it off, pump the mixture into the intake with the motor idling. Give it half a dozen or more healthy squirts, then shut it down and let it sit overnight. If you have the valve covers off, squirt a shot or two of the mixture directly onto the valve stems and lifters.